a peacock's tail at pierre gagnaire's in hong kong

call me a groupie if you will, i do not mind.  i love pierre gagnaire's food and there is no denying i am start-struck each time i meet him.

and so, last night was his last evening in hong kong (for this time around that is) and i decided to surprise maria to a date and book a table at "pierre" for a break to my october diet (yes mom, a diet...).

not surprisingly, i was completely transported by the food...  and the wines selected by pierre legrandois, the excellent sommelier at the mandarin oriental hotel in hong kong.

firstly, i must confess that i was totally enchanted by the table they reserved for us.  a fantastic view over the harbour and a intimacy of the surroundings that i could only hope for in my best of dreams.  what a way to impress maria on the first "date" we have had in a long long time!

then, the extremley attentive and super kind care from everyone in the restaurant.  many people claim that french restaurant's service is cool, distant, and intimidating.  not here at pierre.  they were respectful, mindful, caring, and only enhanced the experience we had the whole evening.

and then, the food...

many people asked me today how i compared the experience with the one i had at the french laundry last month.  how can i compare, i asked, it is like asking me to compare picasso with rembrandt...

the food was certainly exotic, using asian ingredients that are not so uncommon in hong kong's fresh food markets.  the combination of those ingredients was definitely surprising and unusual.  combinations of ingredients that you would absolutely not believe they can pair together.

and that is, i am starting to believe (or, dare i say, to understand, as i am still new to this wonderful world of fine dining), the genius of pierre gagnaire.  he mixes and matches ingredients that defy conventional wisdom and food logic.  he creates a "third way" with food that is almost, i dare venture, "child-like", in the sense that his combinations can only come from the creativity of young, fresh, and widely imaginative minds that us, "grown-ups" would only frown upon. 

and yet...

yet, a mouthful of his creations carries us to another world altogether.  an intellectual challenge and a pleasure of the senses that i have only imagined in my most torrid dreams.  a gastronomic "orgasm" in all sense of the word.

all of this stimulation paired with the other pierre's wine selections.  a challenge that only a very sensitive palates must be able to accomplish.  legrandois' choices of wine have always opened new and wonderful vinous horizons for me.  each time i taste wines selected by pierre legrandois, i have learned something new and wonderful and i have discovered a higher plane of pleasure that wine could bring to my epicurist adventures.

one in particular last night give me a new sensorial sensation that i only knew existed from the books that i had read previously.  the sensation of the "peacock tail" so described about a wine that has a very long lasting after-taste that it so good in quality that it actually opens up like a peacock's tail long after you have swallowed the divine nectar.

the saint-joseph cuilleron st-pierre 2005.  to me an absolutely new and wonderful experience.  the body, the intensity, the length, the peacock tail...  what else can i say???  for me a new standard has been established in my short wine tasting career.  an experience not unlike "my very first time"....

what a night...

 

Published by jc on October 18, 2008

mustilli vs mastroberardino

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the comparison will not be completely accurate here as we are tasting a falanghina and a greco di tufo, two grapes that are something of a speciality down in italy's campania (the region around naples).

falanghina is a very ancient grape that was probably brought by the greeks in the olden days.  some say its name come from the latin "phalanga", the word to describe wooden poles the greeks used for wine training.  it almost came to extinction in campania until leonardo mustilli decided in 1979 to seriously consider how to make fine wines out of the grape.  since, several producers have caught on and planted the grapes in various terroir around the region producing some very interesting and rewarding whites.

the white grape greco was brought by the greeks to the region some 2,500 years ago and has found its home in the tufo soils of campania, especially around the small town of tufo near avellino where it earned the appellation greco di tufo docg.  it is the mastroberardino family that is generally recognized for bringing back the grape to life and make a push for it to become a fine wine.

as usual, i follow the wset systematic approach to tasting for my notes:

 

mustilli - vigna segreta 2005 - falanghina - sant'agata dei goti doc

a clear bright white wine with a deep intensity lemon yellow color at the core and a bright watery rim and some viscosity at the bowl.

a clean nose of medium + intensity and developing aromas of apricot, white flowers, touch of citrus & lime, dried almonds, cream and vanilla.

dry on the palate, with a crisp and refreshing acidity but gentle and pleasant and in balance with its medium + alcohol and body.  a medium intensity flavours of fresh white flowers, younger apricot and lime than its nose, complex with hints of spices, cloves, and cinnamon.  oily, silky on the palate with a long pleasant length of the after-taste.

a good balance, complex and intense.  long. savoury.  a good and rewarding example of a very well made falanghina.

 

mastroberardino - novaserra greco di tufo docg 2006

a clear bright white wine with medium intensity lemon flesh with hints of green hues and a clear water rim.  some viscosity at the bowl

a clean nose of medium intensity and fresh and zesty aromas of peach, orange blossom, apple, lemon, almonds.

dry on the palate with a firm, zesty acidity and medium alcohol and body.  a medium intensity of flavours recalling its nose, but more zesty, crisp, and minerally.  light, almost airy, easy on the palate and fresh.  a medium length with a spicy, if not bitter, and pleasant after-taste.

a good balance.  simple, fresh, rewarding, and easy to drink.  a good wine but slightly simpler and less rewarding than the mustilli falanghina.

 

 

Published by jc on October 11, 2008

pertinace 2005 – barbera d’alba

right now in hong kong, I am not at all happy with wine prices.  after-all, the import tax went down 80% in the last 18 months and yet, regular consumers like myself yet have to see price reductions on most wines on offer. 

 

and so, these days I make it a point to buy the cheapest wines available on lists in every restaurants we visit as well as wine shops we buy our wines.

 

ironically (or cynically?) we are told that the reason we do not see price differences on wine lists is that the selection was replaced with better quality at the same price.  really?  most restaurants I visit have not changed the list much.  those that did, from experience, seem to have a very strange idea of quality – perhaps they should attend a wset class…

 

today I was a bit sceptical when I uncorked a barbera d’alba from pertinace (vintage 2005).  firstly, we bought the wine on sale at hkd 148 at city super and secondly, on removing the foil, the cork was plastic which always gives me shivers.

 

what a surprised when maria pleasantly exclaimed that the wine was “verrry gooood”.

 

a nice, bright ruby/purple color with young black cherries and spicy aromas.  mouth watering acidity, smooth, ripe tannins and medium intensity of juicy prunes, sour cherries and christmas spices on the palates.  complex, quickly evolving glass after glass into a very intriguing perfum of violets, mint and cherries which explodes on the palate and last for a good finish.  very good quality for the price.  will definitely buy again for nice and easy drinking during the week.

 

pertinace 2005 – barbera d’alba – price hkd 148 at city super in causeway bay

 

Published by jc on August 24, 2008

lacrima di morro d'alba - selection rubbjano 2005

ever since i have started my wset diploma (touch wood i will pass my last exam), people i meet have been asking me what is my favourite wine.  normally, i duck the question because i consider myself a student and therefore in a never ending quest for knowledge (...) kidding aside, i find this a difficult question to answer because for me, wine depends so much of who i am drinking it with and what food we are also enjoying at the time.

but last night, with maria and sophie, i had my 3rd bottle of "lacrima di morro d'alba selection rubbjano 2005" by luigi guisti and i can now definitely say that it is my favourite wine - by far.

lacrima is actually a grape that is mainly grown in morro d'alba, a commune in the marches in italy.  it has actually nothing to do with alba in piedmonte.  an autochtonous variety,  it was almost extinct but was revived in the last few years by dedicated growers who are more artisan than businessmen - people of passion rather than money (just my type of people!).

thanks to the giusti patriarch who kept his old vines on his best plots for more than the last 50 years, the selection rubbjano can be crafted and the result is like "une potion ensorcelante", a magic potion.

light ruby color with dark purple hues, it has an incredible perfumed of rose petals, violets, peppermint, and vanilla.  a touch of cinnamon, and a kind of warmth on the aroma not unlike a beautifully warm summer night in the country side.  the palate is soft, silky, round, and rewarding.  the taste much like the nose but more pronounced and complex.  with a medium length of the after-taste, it leaves a nice and savoury lingering taste. 

out of 2,000+ wines that i have tasted in the last 2-3 years, this is the one that i could recognise blindfolded among all of them... je suis ensorcelé...

unfortunately, that wine is very very difficult to find as the giusti family only produce 3,000 bottles per year.  the bottle we drank last night was 1 of 12 that i was super lucky to receive as a christmas present from my super sweet wife (with the help of franco and mama italiana, of course...).

 

Published by jc on August 13, 2008

nice & shapely wine tasting at iwc

winespeak is a big concern of mine. 

i find that most wine descriptions by wine pros are actually confusing to the uninitiated (and to quite a few initiated as well) and, let's face it, most of us wine lovers of the world are uninitiated to winespeak.  we know what we like in a wine, it is just that most of the time, we find that descriptions of gooseberries, pineapples, peach, and cat wee wee does not correspond to our experience of that particular white wine. 

the challenge with wine tasting is that it's such a subjective experience that it is very difficult to pinpoint precisely what a wine taste like. that's the beauty of it some will say.  then, i ask, why do some wine magazines and reviewers seem to think that they are the ultimate authority in wine taste?  and why are most wine lovers shy to express what they taste in a glass when we ask them?

what is not so subjective however is how a wine feels on the palate and how long it lasts after we swallow (or spit, if you have a wife to meet after your tasting...).

and so, last saturday, i went to a very interesting tasting at iwc.  given in a smooth and informal manner on a saturday afternoon, simon tam demonstrated to the 10 of us how different wines had different shapes on our palate, depending on their quality and crafting methods.

some wines are big and bold, and, just like a single firework, will crackle and explode in our mouth with maximum sensation but, after a very short time, will quickly disappear leaving us in a kind of anticlimax.

other wines will be like those exciting sequences of fireworks in which, pang, pang pang, the explosions will follow each other at different intervals, giving us multiple, but disjointed sensations, and yet leaving us excited but longing for more so sudden it finishes on the palate.

some, will even tease and surprise us.  they will disappear on the after-taste to gently, but firmly come back with all kinds of new sensations.

the best however, will not be like fireworks at all.  they will slowly make themselves felt, gently caressing our palate and evolve with complexity and character.  they will last long and even develop new sensations well after we have swallowed.  more like a musical symphony, gently threading a perfect harmony of musical notes, exciting our senses and imagination well after the performance so that we will continue to hum it's melody in our mind for the whole day.

the shapes of wine.  the feeling of tasting.  short and powerful does not necessarily equals to quality.  long, complex, and intricate however, is another thing altogether.

a nice and different perspective.  shape rather than specific tastes.

Published by jc on July 21, 2008

once in a lifetime - acker merral condit wine dinner at the china club

of course, friends will tell me that last night's wine dinner was historical, at least as far as my history is concerned.  a once in a lifetime opportunity.  and to think that i almost did not go because i was completely knackered from a 3-day marathon of tastings after tastings at vinexpo hong kong in the last week.  in the end though, i could not resist.  and so, i put on a tie and made my way up to the china club, this fine hong kong institution where fine art meets chinese nostalgia of the years bygone.

acker merrall condit, this fine wine merchant, has already sent press releases after press releases informing us that they are setting up "pignon sur rue" in hong kong and so i will not repeat the details.  one thing i was told however, is that they did an unprecedented job at public relations during the week leading to today's auction with a degree of lavishness unseen anywhere, even here in hong kong. clearly, their intention is to make the most out of the abolition of wine import duties and firmly establish themselves here become the leading fine wine auction house in asia.

and so, yours truly was a recipient of this lavishness and i report here this historical wine dinner here for the record.  out of respect for these fine fine wines, i will not report individual tasting notes - i know that some of you will be most disappointed and i truly apologize...  the wines were, in order of service:

- château angelus 2005

- château angelus 2003

- château angelus 2000

- château pichon lalande 1996

- château pichon lalande 1995

- château angelus 1998

- château angelus 1990

- château angelus 1989

- château pichon lalande 1989

- château pichon lalande 1986

- château pichon lalande 1982

of course, my favourite was château angelus 2005, followed very closely by château pichon lalande 1989.  to describe the 2005 is very difficult other than to say it was as soft as cashmere.  velvety but softer than that. like what chocolate mousse is to chocolate. extremely balanced, perfumed, with lovely levely round red fruits.  a long, complex, sweet spicy after-taste.  firm on the palate yet gently caressing as if wanting to make love to it.  lovely, lovely, lovely experience.  the 1989 was completely different.  yet, nonetheless exciting.  straight and aristocratic like a british gentleman "de la haute société".  yet, it had the mysterious spiciness of a dark arabian night.  complex, elegant, long lasting.  now more tobacco box and cedar wood than fruits, yet minty and still with lingering hints of blackcurrants and other dark berries.  expressive from the first sniff with an incredible evolution in the glass throughout the evening.  a wine never to forget and a once in a lifetime wine experience.

Published by jc on May 31, 2008

barbi brunello di montalcino riserva 1999

this year, i was blessed with a fantastic 40th birthday party.  in hong kong, i had my dearest friends with me for a fantastic dinner at zest and was offered a membership at the crown cellars and franco was super generous in that he offered me a wonderful bottle of barbi brunello di montalcino riserva 1999.

last week, we had a special family dinner in hong kong and i thought the occasion appropriate.  and so, after decanting for 1 hour, the wine was absolutely fantastic:

deep, intense and complex aromas and flavours of dark chocolate, leather, tobbaco box, spices of the orient, herbs like thym & rosemary. a silky, soft like velvet mouthfeel and a super long lenght.  an excellent wine.  perfect to match our beef served with gorgonzola.

fattoria barbi is among montalcino's oldest brunello producing estate having made wine since 1790.  it is certainly a place we will visit on our next trip to tuscany.

Published by jc on May 8, 2008

corte sant' alda - valpolicella wine region, italy

talking about passionate people...  on our last trip to italy, we visited corte sant'alda in the valpolicella wine region just 1/2 hour north of verona.  what a passionate woman that is marinella camerani who is firmly in charge of this family estate.

although established in the early 80s, they have been growing organically for the past 4 years and bio-dynamically for the last 3.  they absolutely believe in the work of nature so much so that marinella is now considering using horses instead of machines in the vineyards.  their philosophy is simply to produce the best possible wines which will represent their "terroir" and purest typicity of each styles on wines.

when we visited, we tasted their whole range except, to my infinite sadness, their recioto which i had had at another occasion.

the "amarone della valpolicella 2004" was absolutely stunning so was their "valpolicella superior "mithas" 2004"which is made only when the best possible conditions exists in one of their very best vineyards, which by the way are all individually named and personally known and cherished by marinella as if they are her children.

unfortunately, it is not available in hong kong but it is possible to order by internet or, if you go to venice, stop by one of their best wine shop called vino e vini in castello (tel. 041 521 0184) where i bought my 1st bottle a few years ago.

here is the note on the "amarone della valpolicella corte sant alda 2004":

clear & bright deep ruby color with much viscosity (legs) on the bowl.  intense, concentrated prunes, dark cherries, blueberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, vanilla, liquorice.  with a medium (+) tannin, a smooth texture and long lenght of after-taste.  an excellent and super tasty wine to drink now with a nice hearty meal, possibly rosted lamb served on rosemary jus and roasted potatoes.  to keep for 10-15 years and improve most of this time.

needless to say, we bought a few cases to bring back and age in our cellar back in franco's house.

Published by jc on May 3, 2008

an excellent tasting with pierre legrandois

sommelier at the mandarin oriental in hong kong, pierre has tutored for us another excellent tasting last week in the super exclusive krug room hidden deep into the kitchens of the hotel.

the theme this time: "hidden gems of the old and new world". an excellent selection of well chosen wines that were as surprising as to where they came from as to how they tasted. of course, all are available at various restaurants and bars of the hotel.

first off, we had a super refreshing assyrtiko paris sigalas 2006 from surprising santorini. made from organically grown assyrtiko grapes: pale straw, delightful peach, pear, and minerals. slightly salty and super pleasant on the palate: light, succulent, and refreshing. would have been so perfect with shellfish, watching the sun set on my beloved mediteranean sea....

 

then, we had château bela riesling - egon muller 2004. from slovakia, a perfect representation of a riesling: medium intensity lime flesh color, floral, citrusy minerality. apple & grapefruit. slightly spicy. lovely acidity, smooth mouth feel, long length. lovely with lobster...

next on the list and to my absolute delight, maria's all time favourite: donna fugata's vigna di gabri contessa entellina 2006. i was delighted to hear that pierre carries it by the glass at "pierre", the upstairs restaurant by pierre gagnaire. produced in sicily, the wine is an excellent expression of ansonica grapes (also known as inzolia), typical of sicily. a lovely pale lemon flesh color, fresh, medium + intensity of apples, white flowers, mineral and hints of salt. a special taste, surprising on the palate. nice long finish. would be beautiful with a branzino gently steamed and served with lemon and a branch of thym...

next was alentejo esporao reserva 2005. from portugal, it is made with antao vaz, roupeiro, and arinto grapes. lovely. medium strae color. Intense aromas of vanilla, smoke, citrusy cream, with hints of honey. refreshing, lovely finish. reminiscent of a well made california chardonnay. to match, i can think of that nice roast chicken they serve at cococabana, you know the one with a lovely lemony paella and lots of thyme and lemon...

for the first red, we had carmenero ca del bosco 2001. a carmenere from lombardy in the north of italy. from a top quality producer, ca' del bosco, famous for his franciacorta sparkling wine. medium ruby, intense red fruits, plums with mint, vanilla, and spices. refreshing with a medium length on the finish.

next was a cabernet sauvignon superior barkan winery 2003. surprising red from israel. typical of a cabernet sauvignon. intense aromas & flavours. powerful ripe tannins. concentrated with a medium long finish. drink at a nice bbq and share with friends.

from spain this time, bierzo corullon descendes de j. Palacios 2005. from a region more famous for white wines vinho verde. made from mencia grapes, it had a rich ruby color with intense aromas of dark berry fruits, spicy, animal. long length. have it with roasted lamb for great pairing.

the last red was cotes de provence cuvee columelle domaine richeaume 2003. made with syrah & merlot it was dark ruby color leaving a thick brown coating on the bowl of the glass. concentrated, intense and powerful. spicy, minty, round black berry fruits, dark cherries, liquorice, pepper, plums. a lot went on at each sniff and sip. long complex length. beautiful, requests a steak, a roast. my mouth is watering just thinking about it.

to finish the tasting, pierre served us a beautiful ben rye 2004 from donna fugata. intense, complex. like drinking liquid marmalade, orange peal, apricot, spices: cinnamon, cloves, honey, grapefruits. fantastic. in fact i liked it so much that i am offering this wine to my guests at my 40th birthday dinner this week-end. don't worry franco, we will have a bottle to share together the next time you come.

a great tasting. excellent wine selection. i am impressed with pierre's wine picks. always excellent representations. wines with personality and character yes, but also with finesse and elegance in the sense that they are confident in what they are simply by being what they are, not by being show off about it. difficult to explain, i am sure you came across that type of people before and automatically wanted to be friends with them. just like these wines...

Published by jc on March 7, 2008

patrón santiago gran reserva cabernet sauvignon 2000 - tasting notes

a bottle from finca el zorzal de manuel lópez lópez (bodega) brought back from our 1st trip to buenos aires in 2004.  i have been keeping this wine in our cellar ever since and looking forward to open it. 

as usual, our tasting notes are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

apearance:

clear bright with medium intensity ruby color and breaking at the rim.  with several long thin legs caressing the glass.

nose:

clean, medium (+) intensity, developping aromas of black current, dark forest fruits, tobacco, coffee, star anis, vanilla, roasted coconut.  fresh and still young and vibrant on the nose.

palate:

dry with medium refreshing acidity, medium ripe tannins, medium alcohol and body - all in very good balance.  smooth on the palate with medium (+) intensity flavours of black currents, spices, mint, vanilla, and orasted coconut.  a little bit more austere on the palate than on the nose.  long lenght, savoury finish.  requests another sip.  lovely and fresh for an argentinean cabernet after 8 years of ageing.

conclusion:

good.  drink now but can age another 4-5 years at least and improve.  will develop lovely terciary aromas and flavours

 

 

Published by jc on March 2, 2008

argentina - terrazas de los andes - tasting notes

an interesting visit at terrazas. as i mentioned earlier, they produce extremely well-made wines. almost flawless. their wines are widely available in hong kong especillay at oliver's in prince's building in central.

as always, as a practice for my wset diploma, i base my notes on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

terrazas de los andes chardonnay 2007:

pale lemon flesh with green hues. medium intensity tropical fruits, vanilla, cream. very soft on palate yet medium (+) acidity. medium body and alcohol. medium lenght. perfect with smoke salmon and greens.

terrazas de los andes chardonnay reserva 2007 very much as previous one but more pronouced vanilla and coconut. smoky charater and slightly spicy. softer and more elegant. nice.

terrazas reserva malbec 2006

medium purple color paler at rim. medium intensity plum, violet, vanilla. hints of dry coconut. low acidity, medium tannins. medium lenght. a "proper" wine. well made, tidy, an excellent representation of an argentinean malbec.

cheval des andes 2004

a "bordeaux blend" made together with the good people of super premium bordeaux' chateau cheval blanc. unfortunately i detected a little bit (much in fact) of oxidation and i suspect the wine had been decanted much earlier for another tasting. in any case, going a little deeper and hoping it was not whishful thinking, i found:

a deep purple color and barely paler at the rim. many thick legs coating the bowl.

Beyond the hints of oxidation, medium intensity jammy dark forest fruits, dark cherries, coffee, meat, savoury spices, minth, vanilla. super concentrated on the palate. medium acidity, medium ripe round tannins, medum alcohol and body, all in perfect balance. Long lenght, complex. excellent now but will definitely age well for 5-6 years although i wonder if hints of oxidation only after a few hours of decanting is not a sign that the wine should be consumed young rather than older.

Published by jc on February 29, 2008

cobos crocodilo cabernet sauvignon 2005

tasted on our visit to vina cobos in mendoza argentina. as always, my notes are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

deep purple color and paler at rim (but not much) medium + intensity jammy black fruits, definite vanilla, roasted coconut, hints of tobacco, slightly creamy & toasty. medium acidity and tannins. concentrated and alcoholic. a big wine with a good balance. medium lenght and somewhat complex finish. drink now but can keep and certainly improve by developping complexity and better integration of oak. lovely.

Published by jc on February 29, 2008

weinert malbec 1977

on our trip to mendoza, we were super lucky to have a taste of some great wines. in particular we had a very special experience getting drunk on a 1977 malbec in front of the fireplace in our lodge casita. my tasting notes are based loosely here on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

pale ruby color with a rich amber rim.

powerful yet elegant intensity developped aromas of ripe plums, dried tobacco leaves, cigar box, pencil shavings, chocolate, spices. layers after layers.

medium acidity and medium ripe tannins with a silky mouthfeel. medium alcohol & body with amazing layers of flavours one sip plums with hints of dark cherries, the other raisins, cigar box, chocolate, pencil shavings, tobbaco leaves, coffee, sweet spices, cinamon, liquorice. and on and on. elegant and savoury with a long lenght and complex finish. definitely ready to drink but the acidity, tannins, alcohol and hints of fruits suggest this wine can still age and continue to evolve and improve.

Published by jc on February 29, 2008

viña montes - chile - tasting notes

a wonderful tour at viña montes today at apalta in the colchagua valley.  our guide pamela mujica was really first class, super informative, and very caring to give us the best tasting conditions.

the winery was absolutely amazing:  super modern with state of the art equipment yet designed according to the feng shui principles of harmony with nature and it's environement.  the whole wine making process is organised around gravity and attention to details at each step is second to none to produce top quality wines.  they even play beautiful gregorian chants in their cellars to impart some of that elegant energy to the wines as they age in new oak.

the vineyard is no less handled with care and attention.  not only that the vines are carefully trimmed and treillised in a stuning landscape but each plot is carefully studied to plant only the best variety for the specific characteristics of the terroir and optimize the character of the resulting wines.

our tasting notes, as always are based on the wset systematic approach for diploma level:

sauvignon blanc 2007 - leyda vineyard

pale lime flesh color; medium intensity aromas of grass, gooseberries, exotic fruits - lychee, passion fruit, hints of melon; refreshing acidity, medium (+) intensity flavours of fresh cut grass, gooseberries, passion fruit; medium lenght and succulent mouth watering finish.

cabernet sauvignon & carmenere 2006 - apalta vineyard rich ruby color w/ purple reflections; medium (+) intensity aromas of dark forest fruits, chocolate, coffee, spices, hints of mint & eucalyptus - lots going at each round; medium (-) acidity, medium (-) round ripe tannins, medium (+) intensity flavours of dark fruits, liquorice, tar, coffee, mint. a medium lenght w/ complex finish

montes alpha cabernet sauvignon 2005 - apalta vineyard rich ruby color; medium intensity (subtle & elegant) aromas of dark fruits - blackcurrent, black berries, blueberries, spices, pine, forest; medium (-) acidity, medium ripe tannins, medium intensity flavours of dark fruits, coffee, spices, pine. medium lenght & complex finish. wonderful & elegant.

montes alpha syrah 2006 - apalta vineyard medium purple color; medium elegant intensity aromas of young fruits cassis, blueberries, blackberries, white pepper, light spices; medium acidity, medium tannins, medium intensity flavours of ripe blueberries & blackberries, light spices. soft, subtle. juicy & succulent. medium (-) lenght & surprisingly simple finish

montes folly syrah 2005 - apalta vineyard ruby color with purple reflections; medium (+) intensity aromas blueberries, blackberries, liquorice, sweet spices, mint - very complex; medium acidity, medium ripe & round tannins, blackberries, spices, black pepper, sweet spices, mint. medium lenght and complex finish

purple angel 2005 - apalta (92 carmenere) medium ruby color; medium intensity aromas of blueberries, coffee, spices, mint; medium (-) acidity, medium (-) round tannins, medium intensity flavours of blackberries, spices, mint, coffee. medium lenght & complex finish. delightful

Published by jc on February 7, 2008

casa silva - chile - tasting notes

casa silva in the colchagua valley is a wonderful winery, it's just too bad our tour guide treated us like cattle...

here below are tasting notes for 2 out of 3 wines tasted during our visit, they are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting for diploma level:

sauvignon gris 2007

medium intensity aromas, elegant (soft & round) grassy notes with white peach, melon, white flower, touch of pineapple; medium (-) acidity, medium body & alcohol, medium intensity flavours of grass, citrus, apple, medium lenght with complex finish. sharper on the mouth than on the nose.

los lingues gran reserva carmenere 2005

medium (+) intensity aromas of round red forest fruits, savoury, coffee, chocolate, with a touch of mint, spicy, complex; medium (-) acidity, medium (-) ripe tannins, medium body, medium (+) alcohol, mediume (+) intensity flavours of savoury forest fruits, spices, coffee, chocolate, surprisingly short lenght and simple finish for so much going on the nose and on the palate.

Published by jc on February 7, 2008

chile - nice little sparkling & merlot - tasting notes

valdivieso extra brut - maipo

a great many persistent small bubbles; medium intensity aromas of brioche, lemon, apple; nice creamy mousse, medium acidity, medium intensity flavours of green apple skin, lemon cream, brioche, bread, a pleasant, mouth watering medium lenght and semi-complex structure

chateau los boldos vielles vignes - merlot 2004 - requinoa

medium (+) intensity aromas of nice round ripe red fruits - a little jammy - rasberries, ripe strawberries, red cherries, mirtles, spices, strong hints of mint; low acity, low ripe tannins, medium (+) body and alcohol, medium (+) intensity flavours of blueberries, strawberries, tar, a medium lenght and tasty finish.

Published by jc on February 5, 2008

wine 365 - santiago

last night, tired and lazy, we decided to stay at the hotel's wine bar incidentally called ''wine 365'' because they have 365 chilean wines on their list, one for each day of the year.

decor was hotel like but we sat on a nice little terrace outstide.  service is definitely lacking as we waited 1/2 hour to be asked if we wanted wine and another 1/2 to receive them.  in any case, i am not sure if this is south america or the hotel, i will let you know later.  one thing is sure is that we will not go back unless it's torrential rain outside...

i order a flight - you know i love this concept and so while i was writting my notes, my sweet maria was listening to the couple next to us having a fight...

here are my notes, the carmenère was had by maria:

Van siebenthal reserva 2006 - aconcagua - carmenere:

medium intensity aromas of forest fruits - rasberries, blueberries, blackberries, vanilla, hints of mint & eucalypteus; medium acidity, low tannins (round), medium body, high alcohol, medium intensity flavours of mint, eucalypteus, black berries, herbaceous character overall. medium lenght, simple finish

 

terrunyo 2007 - casablanca - sauvignon blanc:

medium (-) intensity aromas of grass, grapefruit, green apple, very fresh; medium (-) acidity, medium body, medium alcohol, with medium intensity flavour of lemon, grapefruits, fresh cut crass, unripe green apple, short lenght with a somewhat complex finish

 

veranda gran reserva 2006 - casablanca - chardonnay:

low intensity aromas of citrus, vanilla, hints of cream and yogurt; low acidity, medium body, medium (+) alcohol, medium intensity flavours of oak, vanilla, cream, citrus, short & simple lenght undurraga altazor 2004 - cabernet sauvignon - maipo medium intensity aromas of blackcurrents, black barries, vanilla, spices, coffee, hints of herbaceaousness; medium (-) acidity, medium ripe tannins, medium body, medium (+) alcohol, medium intensity flavours of black berries, coffee, spices, vanilla. medium & complex length.

ge 2003 emliana - bordeaux blend (biodynamic) - colchagua:

high & concentrated intensity aromas of dark fruits - blueberries, black berries, black cherries, spices - cinammon, anis, liquorice, quina, vanilla, minth; medium (-) acidity, medium tannins (unripe), medium (+) intensity flavours of dark berries, eucalypteus, mint, spices, herbaceous. Long and complex but a bitter finish

Published by jc on February 4, 2008

poggio antico altero 1997 - tasting notes

this wine has a special emotion attached to it.  we bought it on teh next day after our wedding in tuscany.  we were marrid in cortona and arranged for a whole week of touring around chianti and montalcino for our guests.

one stop on our itinerary was a lunch at the fanstastcic restaurant of poggio antico.  we had a chance to visit their cantina and it is there that we bought this wine.  too bad, we could only bring 1 bottle.

our tasting notes are based on wset systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, medium ruby core with a amber rim and a great many luscious and complex legs at the bowl

nose:

clean, developping, medium (+) intensity aromas of tar, leather, savoury spices, forest undergrowth, with hints of dark fruits, prune, figs

palate:

dry, low acidity, medium (-) tannins (round & soft), medium body, medium alcohol all in very good balance, medium (+) intensity flavours as nose, a little salty, savoury.  a medium and delicious lenght.

conclusion:

a good wine, complex with layers and layers of aromas and flavours.  ready to drink, however, hints of fruits and tannins makes us beleive it can age for some time and further develop delicious terciary flavours.

bought at the winery for eur 50

Published by jc on December 9, 2007

esporão garrafeira 2003 alentejo doc - tastings notes

ever since catavino invited me via facebook to participate to wine blog wednesday #38, i have looked for portugese wines in hong kong without much success. so it was with anticipation that i brought back a bottle from a trip to macau and we had it for dinner on last saturday:

on the nose, pleasant aromas of dark forest fruits, slightly jammy and spicy.  on the palate, concentrated, full bodied, flavours as nose with long finish.

 

Published by jc on December 9, 2007

domaines astruc - blanquette de limoux - tasting notes

during my WSET studies for the unit on sparkling wines, i look and look for a blanquette de limoux so that i can taste it and of course practice for the exam. 

i did not succeed to find one and so i was very happy when i attended a wine dinner hosted by domaine paul mas and was able to order a ew bottles to be delivered the next day to my office. 

and so, at a dinner last night, i served it to my guests and they actually liked it better than champagne.  in fact, i always thought that champagne is an acquired taste or a status symbol.  or both...  the blanquette is pleasant, delicious and accessible while being complex enough to make it a very good appetizer wine.

here is our tasting notes (brief version):

Pale golden color with fine persitent bubbles. Medium intensity, brioche, green apple, citrus, fresh mineral aromas.  dry, refreshing acidity, soft creamy mousse.  medium intensity flavour, lightly and mouthwatering citrus, less brioche on palate, yet strong hints of autolitic complexity.   delicious lenght and finish.  pleasant and delicious.

bought in hong kong hkd 158 (usd 20)


Published by jc on December 9, 2007

a great wine by glass at isola in hong kong

barbera d'alba la luna 2003 luca abrate - glass (hkd 98)

on the nose, perfumed, nice juicy red fruits with hints of vanilla and pepper.

in mouth, refreshing, smooth, juicy red fruits and vanilla. succulent finish and medium lenght.

nice and tasty, enough to order a second glass...

Published by jc on December 4, 2007

vinitaly china - shanghai december 2007

unfortunately for the exhibitors, the 9th edition of vinitaly china in shanghai was not very well attended.  a pity because some fine producers were exhibiting and i think this was really from a lack of imagination from the organisers and from not having spent enough energy promoting the event in hong kong where no one i know in the wine trade kew about the event.

it was fortunate for me however, because producers had time for me and were quite relaxed to talk about their wines and what they do back in italy.

i planned to attend the fair 2 days but ended up completing what i had come to do in only one.  i spent most of my time in the ''pavillions'' of abruzzo and sardegna and was certainly glad to meet those producers i did.

first of, was ''santa maria la palma'' from sardegna which makes our ''vino della casa'' red and white which are simple, easy to drink, easy to match with any food: the red, cannonau ''le bombarde'' which i reviewed previously in those pages and the white, vermentiono ''aragosta'' which is fragrant, peachy, stony, refreshing, and delicious.

 

then, we had wines at ''argiolas'' which were certainly of great quality and very well made, in particular the ''turriga 2003 - isola dei nuraghi'' which had a nice ruby core with purple hints at rim; aromatics of a developping wine with stewed red fruits, pepermint, hints of chocolate and coffee; refreshing acidity on the palate with a medium tannin, flavours as nose with stronger herbceous-pepperminty characters and long finish.  a good wine that will certainly age well for several years.

their vermentino ''is argiolas 2006'' was of a luscious pale gold color with fresh & youthfull aromatics of pear, pinapple, exotic fruits and hints of minerals & stones; a refreshing acidity, medium body, as delicious on the palate as it was aromatic on the nose with slightly bitter/nutty finish reminiscent of almonds.  complex, pleasant, delicious.

Published by jc on December 2, 2007

solaia 2002 (annata diversa) - antinori - tasting notes

it is always a treat when franco visits us from italy.  first because his suitcase is always full of food and wine, but best because we get to open some pretty great bottles to taste the 3 of us together.

tonight, we review the solaia 2002 annata diversa named in such a way because the weather was especially good the cabernet grapes in that year and antinori did not use sangiovese as they do usually.  the is only made with cabernet sauvignon & cabernet franc.

our tasting notes are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, deep ruby at the core and breaking at the rim, with a great many thin legs

nose:

cleam, developping with medium intensity aromas of stewed black forest fruits, pepper & savoury spices, vanilla, with hints of ageing characteristics: leather, prune.  mouthwatering and complex with layers and layers of aromas coing out at each passage

palate:

dry, medium (-) acidity, medium (-) tannins (slightly harsh), medium (+) alcohol and medium body.  medium intensity flavours as nose, savoury, a little harsh in mouth.  complex finish with medium lenght.

conclusion:

good.  not exceptional.  acceptable complexity, a good balance, young enough with enough tannins and acidity to offer potential for ageing.  ready to drink but can age another 2-3 years.

 

Published by jc on December 2, 2007

dinner at spasso hong kong


on my way back from china by ferry, i decided to try out this new place spasso in ocean center at harbour city.  it was very early so i did not have a chance to see it in full swing.  what i saw however is that they are very serious about trainning. 

i sat on the terrace overlooking the harbour (with a partial view from central to sheung wan and kennedy town) which was spacious and airy. 

the menu is traditional italian offering guests a culinary trip around italy with full of mouthwatering & interesting dishes and a large wine by the glass list.  thanks on behalf of wine lovers, i was assured that all wines are kept at the proper temperature in a eurocave cellar.

for my main i had the "black pepper pappardelle tossed with wild boar ragout".  it was delicious and perfect with my glass of zenato ripassa.

for a style, funky atmosphere, and the prelude of a good night out, spasso is definitely the hippest italian restaurant on that side of hong kong.

RIPASSA DI VALPOLLICELLA ZENATO 2005 (hkd 118 - glass) a pleasant aromatic of young ripe red & black forest fruits with vanilla, chocolate, and pepper; low acidity and smooth tannins.  medium body and high levels of alcohol.  flavours as nose but more spicy, with a medium lenght.. Pleasant mouthfeel, fruity yet spicy - delicious.

spasso: # 403, ocean centre, harbour city, kowloon, hong kong, tel. +852 2730 8027

Published by jc on November 21, 2007

san felice wine dinner at cipriani - 19 november 2007

As strange as it might appear, I love to go for dinner by myself.  not that i do not like good company mind you. 

it is just that my imagination goes absolutely wild when i dine alone.   it gives me a buzz to watch the service, listen to bits and pieces of conversations going on around me.  but most of all, i love observing people.  how they behave in groups, how they behave towards me, alone at my table.  it is the body language that tells me so much, or rather trigger my imagination.  i love to invent stories about one or the other, to imagine what they think, where they could be coming from, where they could be going next .  sometimes, this makes me sad, especially when i see someone who appears not to be assuming himself to the extent that i feel he should.  other times it makes me laugh at how arrogant or pompous others behave towards their guests or kin.  all the while, i love to watch and to make up stories. 

perhaps it helps me learn about myself?  as they say, what we see in other people is actually what we see in ourselves...

in any case... we are here for the wine and so:

VERMENTINO DI MAREMMA 2006 - matched to tuna tartare
pale golden color, aromatic with floral aromas; nice refreshing acidity, with simple flavour as it should for its kind.  fresh pears, citrus, lime skin, slightly peppery.  medium lenght.  pleasant as appetizer.

CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA IL GRIGIO 2004 - matched to risotto with radicchio di treviso
pale ruby, nice aromatic of dark forest fruits, spices, forest underwood; low acidity, medium body & alcohol, soft tannins, flavours as nose, smoky, medium lenght, fruity finish.  pleasant.

VIGORELLO 2001 - matched with rack of lamb with vintage balsamic sauce
medium ruby with purple tints.  aromatic of dark forest fruits: blackberries, black currents, blueberries and vanilla, low acidity, medium + tannin (slightly harsh), medium + body, palate as nose with hints of chocolate and tobacco box.  medium lenght with a fruity finish.  can drink now and can age.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO CAMPOGIOVANNI 2001 - matched with rack of lamb with vintage balsamic sauce
deep ruby, aromatic of dark forest fruits, slightly herbaceous, with hints of minth and tobacco, vanilla; medium acidity,  medium ripe tannins, flavours as nose but fruitier and with a complex, spicy finish.   medium lenght.  a good wine, pleasant and complex.

VIN SANTO DEL CHIANI CLASSICO 2002 - matched with mango cheese cake with zabaione sauce
deep gold color, aromatic of creme caramel, slightly burnt sugar, raisins, dark honey; sweet, low acidity, full body, flavours as nose, slightly spicy: cinnamon, vanilla, long  and complex finish.  good.

GRAPPA DI BRUNELLO CAMPOGIOVANNI - matched with tea or coffee

 

Published by jc on November 20, 2007

a great wine at isola: vermentino

yes!  i found a great wine on isola's list, finally.  vermentino di gallura 2006, giogantinu from sardegna.  price at hkd 450, it was great value for money:

nice pale lime-flesh color, aromatic, pear, peach, lime and a stony, mineral note typical vermentino aroma that reminds one of fresh mediterrenean seafood.  a refreshing acidity, complex palate as nose and long lenght.  peppery, fresh, and tasty.

i will buy it again.

Published by jc on November 18, 2007

wine tasting with pierre legrandois

i have a very nice wine tasting at the mandarin oriental last saturday with pierre legrandois, the cheif somelier for the hotel in hong kong.

firstly, the setting was certainly impressive being in the super exclusive krug room located right in the middle of the hotel kitchen with a stunning marbe table and an entire wall being a floor to ceiling window overlooking the action on the kitchen.

pierre legrandois is a very ''sympathique'' somelier who is passionate about wine and certainly very knowledgeable.  his approach was entirely casual and accessible: he was there to demistify wine and to give us a tour of the most typical wines that we may encounter in all good quality restaurants.

for me, being at diploma level of WSET, the information he provided was mostly a review of what i had heard before in other tastings and classes.  however, it was delivered with insight and enthusiasm and that made me feel very comfortable with what i have learned until now.

his selection was classic and very interesting in that the wines we tasted were very good representations of their kind and the quality was outstanding. 

we tasted:

white:

2003 riesling cuvee f. emile trimbach, alsace france

2004 chassagne montrachet fontaine gagnard, burgundy france

2006 sauvignon blanc leewin estate, margaret river australia

red:

2004 gevrey chambertin vielles vignes f. magnien, burgundy france

2001 brunello di montalcino siro pacenti, tuscany italy (my favourite, described below)

2003 cabernet suavignon voyager estate, margaret river australia

 

2001 brunello di montalcino siro pacenti - tasting notes:

our tasting notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting (diploma level 4 - light wines):

appearance:

clear bright, deep ruby red at the core with tints of purple.  with a paler rim and plenty of long, and luscious legs at the bowl.

nose:

clean, developping, medium (+) aromas of dark forest fruits - blackcurrents, blackberries, blueberries, gamey (animal/meaty), spciy, loquorice, vanilla.  complex and at the same time elegant.

flavours:

dry, medium acidity, medium (-)