brunello 2004 horizontal with the hong kong wine society

a very interesting tasting last night with the hong kong wine society.

when i selected the wines in montalcino last christmas, i frankly did not expect that this tasting would turn out to be so fascinating...in fact, labels were carefully selected so that we can try to identify modern vs traditional styles and southerly vs northerly established vineyards.

there was the common brunello tread (fleshy with blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry, chocolate, leather, violets, and a touch of spices) throughout but the wines were stylistically so different from each other that it was almost like tasting different vintages and even region...

then there was the ranking by the overall group which in itself was so interesting, completely different than wine spectator and certainly very much against the pricing order of these wines.

here is how the wines ranked after tasting them blind (in bracket, the wine spectator score and price i paid in montalcino on 27 december 2009):

1st = Talenti (WS 92 – Euro 27-)

2nd = Casanova Di Neri Tenuta Nuova (WS 96 – Euro 46-)

3rd = Lisini (WS 94 – Euro 31-)

4th = San Polino Helichrysum (WS N/A – Euro 48-)

5th = Poggio Il Castellare (WS 96 – Euro 28-)

6th = Banfi Poggio Alle Mura (WS 94 – Euro 37-)

7th = Fuligni (WS 84 – Euro 64-)

8th = Sesti (WS 88 – Euro 34-)

9th = Poggio Di Sotto (WS 91 – Euro 75-)

10th = Podere San Giacomo (WS 95 – Euro 39-)

 

for dinner, we had a biondi santi annata 2004 which showed very well after having spent 2 1/2 hours in the decanter and we also had a disappointing il poggione 2004 which also spent 2 hours in the decanter but was slightly out of balance (hot) and somewhat tired already.

for more information, the brunello consortium website is helpful but for a quick outline about montalcino, you can download my pdf notes about the terroir here and more specific information about each wines here.

Published by jc on July 23, 2010

worldwide synchronized tasting with sud de france

when the super dynamic people of sud de france invited me to join their worldwide synchronized tasting, i was curious with the project and also thrilled to be involved with such an up and coming wine region as what languedoc-rousillon has become.

covering half of france's coast with the mediterranean sea, the region has a dazzling history extending back to the greeks, a wonderful diversity and richness of soils, all kinds of climates and grape varieties and an extraordinary natural beauty.

over 40 wines have achieved aoc status which include red, rosé and white wines, naturally sweet wines and sparkling wines.  but beyond the wines of appellation, the region has an extremely rich heritage of vin de pays offering the adventurous wine lover an exciting diversity of vinous experiences.

today is a worldwide synchronized wine tasting which is to take place at 11 am wherever the participants are located.  as i understand, 90 bloggers and journalists were sent the same wines as i received and all these people will taste and comment at the same time depending on their time zone.

the wines and impressions as follow:

1- sparkling: sieur d'arques, aoc crémant de limoux, grande cuvée 1531:

1531 refers to the year benedictine nuns in a neighbouring village invented the world's 1st sparkling wine: "la blanquette de limoux".

intense lemon, floral with fresh croissant notes on the nose.  creamy but slightly aggressive mousse, balanced, good length. a wine best served ice cold for an aperitif on a hot summer day...

2- white: cigalus gérard bertrand, vdp d'oc, cuvée 2008

bright lemon color, rich & intense nose of peach, apricot with hints of citrus. smooth, round & full on the palate, balanced, floral & vanilla finish.  good length of the after-taste. would serve it with barbecued white meats or fish...

3- rosé: fruité catalan, aoc côtes du roussillon

bright candy pink color,  an explosion of fruit on the nose: strawberries, raspberries, cherries, fruit drops, bananas and tropical fruits.  touch creamy, fresh.  the palate is balanced, light, crisp, and explosively fruity with a spicy refreshing finish.  definitely a wine to sip around the swimming pool...

4- red: dromadaire 30670, cdp vin de pays d'oc, cuvée 2006

the name here refers to the postal code of the village where the wine is made...

deep purple color.  medium intensity dark berries, pure blackcurrant, black berries with a hint of cherries.  the palate is very firm, with jammy fruits and a spicy finish.  definitely a wine that begs for roasted meats on a bbq...

5- sweet wine: mas de madame, aoc muscat de frontignan, cuvée 2006:

bright yellow with golden hues. rich and intense aromas of orange blossom,  ripe peaches, apricot, and white lilies of the mountains. sweet, round, and smooth on the palate with peachy and baked apple finish.  a wine to serve with a rich fruit tart or simply to enjoy cold after dinner.

 

all in all, an interesting experience.  the sheer diversity of the wines of languedoc-roussillon should be enough to make any wine lovers curious to explore this fascinating region.

 

Published by jc on June 21, 2010

this week tasting - 3 wines from piedmont vs 3 syrah/shiraz from france and australia

this week, we have tasted a flight of piedmontese wines against a flight of syrah and shiraz so that we can make the comparisons and highlight the differences.

this post is short as i just returned from italy and have much to catch up.  for your more information on piedmont and syrah/shiraz, you can click here to get my notes on:

- piedmont and its terroir;

- syrah/shiraz grape characteristics.

as usual, our notes are made using the wset level (diploma) systematic approach to tasting and you can download the full notes by clicking on the link of each wine names.  we only publish our conclusion.

marks & spencer chateau de surville costière de nîmes 2006:

acceptable entry-level wine – good complexity, concentration and depth of fruits on the nose, however surprisingly disappearing on the palate.  slightly higher acidity in relation to tannins and fruit on the palate.  short length.

bridgewater mill shiraz 2005:

good mid-level wine.  good balance acidity, tannins, and alcohol well supported by good quality fruits on the palate.  complex both on nose and palate, however elegant, and fine.  very smooth.  well made from quality fruits and techniques.

les launes crozes-hermitage 2006 – delas frères:

good mid-level wine – good intensity, complexity and balance of aromas and flavours between nose and palate.  good balance of acidity, tannins, with alcohol and fruit.  well made from good raw materials and wine making techniques.  elegant & refined.  firm tannins & quality fruit shows promise for ageing.

ceretto zonchera barolo 2004:

good mid-level wine – good complexity, and balance on and between nose and palate.  acidity and firm tannin well supported by alcohol and fruit.  good length and pleasant after-taste. careful if technical winemaking.

ceretto asij barbaresco 2005:

good mid-level wine – good complexity on nose and palate.  light concentration of fruit.  good balance of nose and palate as well, good fruit and high alcohol supports well the chewy tannins and high acidity.  good and pleasant length of after-taste.

ceretto piana barbera d'alba 2006:

good mid-level wine.  slightly more intense on palate than on nose showing good complexity and balanced alcohol and acidity & tannins.  juicy and somewhat long on the after-taste.  characteristic  & pleasant barbera, well made from quality fruits to drink now. 

all wines were bought at watson's wine cellars except the costière de nîmes which was bought at marks & spencer in central.

Published by jc on April 13, 2009

tasting merlot

this week, we tasted merlot. a grape that became super fashionable in the usa after the news program "60 minutes" had a feature on the "french paradox" and how red wine is possibly responsible for the low incidence of heart disease in france even though the french eat a lot of cheeze (and love it!).

the reason merlot is so popular in fact is probably because it gives a wine that is generally plump, soft, plummy, supple, and luscious.  thanks to its large berries and thin skin, it is much more approachable and easier to drink young than it's regular blending partner cabernet sauvignon.  for a wine grower, it's easy to grow, ripens quickly, and it gives a generous crop.

unfortunately, that can be sources of problems.  on its own, it can be very bland especially if it comes from too generous a crop in the vineyards.  picked too quickly and in a cold vintage, it can taste minty and often unpleasantly herbaceaous and green.  if the vintage and climate are too hot, it might easily be too alcoholic and jammy.

merlot finds its home in the st-émilion & pomerol districts of bordeaux from where the wines will generally be rich, gentle, velvety, and spicy. even though many people think that cabernet sauvignon is king in bordeaux, merlot is the most planted red grape and it provides flesh, softeness, and richness to blends.

merlot is also planted all over the world, especially in chile where it was once mixed up with another similar grape called "carmenere".  you can also find excellent examples from california, the north of italy, and from new zealand's hawkes bay region.

young, you can expect red & black fruits, figs, prunes, spices, and liquorice.  sometimes, it will be described as tasting of "christmas cake".  aged and from a good quality raw material, it will develop a deep bouquet with notes of truffles, coffee, and liquorice.

our notes this week (pdf), all tasted blind (based on the wset level 4 systematic approach):

marks & spencer friuli grave merlot 2006 - friuli-venezia-giulia, italy

acceptable entry level wine.  some complexity and an average length.  lacks concentration and depth.  tannin slightly off-balance.  good wine making from average quality raw materials.

cono sur carmenere 2007 - colchagua valley, chile

not a merlot, but often mistaken as merlot.  this was our weekly trick wine to identify which was the odd one out!

acceptable entry level wine.  hints of unripe fruits at first.  low tannins.  some fruit complexity but a short length.  the wine demonstrate that it was picked slightly under ripe possibly from a difficult vintage.

château lapelletrie 2005 st-émilion grand cru - st-émilion, bordeaux

acceptable premium wine – an elegant and refined nose changed into a very disappointing palate with a bitter and unpleasant finish.  although alcohol, tannin, and acidity in balance, the bitterness is empowering the fruit and the elegance perceived on the nose.  depth, finesse, and complexity of the nose shows it was made from excellent raw materials.

casa lapostolle merlot 2006 - rapel valley, chile

very good mid-level wine.  excellent balance and smooth, complex palate and nose.  long length and elegance showing excellent raw materials and wine making.  pleasant floral, savoury, and length of the after-taste.

trefethen merlot 2004 –napa valley, california

very good mid-level wine – excellent balance, complexity, and length.  savoury, from excellent ripe fruit and wine making.  high quality and excellent structure to age well and develop excellent characteristics.

 

all wines were bought at watson's wine cellars and marks & spencer in hong kong.

Published by jc on March 30, 2009

let's not forget that wine is a product of nature...

when we evaluate wine quality, let's remember that wine is a natural product.  in fact and possibly grossly stated, wine is basically alcoholic grape juice and the best grape juice can only come from the best grapes.  that means grapes picked at optimal ripeness.

and that is my take on wine quality: where does it come from and was it made with the best possible raw materials?  this is the question we should ask ourselves when we taste wine to evaluate quality. 

to follow up on my posts about wine tasting, i would like to bring up the subject of grape ripeness here below.

optimum ripeness is the perfect balance between the sugars, the acids, and the phenolics - all naturally presents in all fruits.  as the grape ripens in the vineyard, the sugars and acids evolves in an inversely proportional relationship, meaning that, as the sugars increase, the acids will decrease.  as for the phenolics, the chemical compounds found in the skin, the pulp, the pips etc which gives us the aromas, flavours, and tannins, they will increase, albeit at a different rate, together with the sugars. and so, all this to say, the decision when to pick the grape is super important because this balance (or imbalance) will be reflected in the quality of the final wine. 

sugars are critical to produce alcohol.  too few sugars, the wine will be light and low in alcohol and, as we have seen, it will also mean that the acidity will be high and therefore the wine will be tart and out of balance.  conversely, too high sugars will make the wine very full and alcoholic and therefore the acidity will be low and again the wine will be hot and out of balance.

acids are important as the sugars.  they contribute to freshness and, as they are preservatives, play an important role in the preservation and ageing of the wine.  acidity is always an important element of the wine balance.

as for phenolics, too few and the wine will be insipid, characterless, and if it is red, it will not have good enough tannins to provide that all important structure needed for the red to age beautifully.

now, the challenge is this.  some grapes, by nature, ripens faster than others.  and so the weather, the site and the vine-growing techniques become super important when it comes to ripeness.  grow the wrong grape on the wrong site and the wine will show accordingly.  be unlucky enough to have a cold, cloudy, and rainy summer and again your grapes will not ripen properly and the wine will show accordingly.  this is why in fact that some regions will be very successful only with a particular type of grape.  it is also why some wines made from fashionable grapes can be absolutely terrible from some site because the grower only cared about fashion but no so much about whether his site was suitable for the grape (the reason why so many chardonnays and cabernet sauvignon in this world are absolutely appalling).

and so, ripeness is key and the optimum conditions for optimum ripeness are:

- long & slow ripening season from a warm (not hot) summer, and a long, dry, warm autumn;

- low yields from the control of vines & bunch growth in the vineyards so that all the energy is concentrated on the grapes and not on the leaves and the plant growth;

- large temperature difference between day and night so that the grape aromas and flavours (the phenolics) develop firmly in the grape while its natural acidity builds up and is preserved;

- free draining soils so that the the root system grows deep into the ground and the vines does not have too much water so that its vigour and yields are naturally controlled.

optimum ripeness from optimum conditions will give us maximum concentration and complexity, the highest possible natural acidity, the ripest & softest tannins, and the perfect balance of its components - alcohol/acidity/tannins/fruit.  all critical elements of quality in white and red wines.

and so, the next time i will evaluate a wine, i will ask myself the all important question: does the wine in my glass come from ripe grapes? 

a simple question but one that we all too often forget...

here is a synopsis of this post in pdf format.

 

 

Published by jc on March 28, 2009

some shiraz tasting this week...

this week's tasting, in which i discovered all kinds of new sensations, is about shiraz.  yes, each time i have been to a tutored tasting, i was told to be on the look out for black pepper and dark berry fruits.  you can imagine my delight when i discovered during this tasting that shiraz can be actually full of flowers: violets (delightful), roses, and all kinds of exotically scented flowers like carnations and other wonderful and succulent aromas.

we tasted (you can click on the link to get our full wset level tasting notes in pdf format):

peter lehmann's eight songs shiraz 2003 – barossa valley, south-australia

good premium wine.  excellent complexity of fruit well supported by a firm but smooth and silky tannins.  intense and deep aromas and palate with a good length.  showing excellent typicity of style and origin.  shows and excellent structure to age marvelously and develop very well.

peter lehmann's weighbridge shiraz 2006 - south australia

good mid-level wine.  much more intense on palate than on nose with a very complex palate finely interwoven with excellent savoury fruits and careful use of oak.  explosive and long on the after-taste.  pleasant and delicious.

leeuwin estate art series shiraz 2006 - margaret river, western australia

very good premium wine.  excellent balance of acidity, tannins, and alcohol and supported by an excellent fruit.  excellent concentration, complexity, and exotic aromas and flavours.  definitely made with excellent quality fruit.  a very good structure and fruit to age beautifully and develop very rewarding character.

unfortunately, the st-joseph (côte du rhône) we had for this tasting was corked and so can not give a tasting note this time around.

all these wines were purchased at watson's wine cellars in hong kong.

Published by jc on March 23, 2009

1er cru beaujolais tasting with the hong kong wine society

some months ago, i was sitting next to a côte de beaune wine maker and we were talking about burgundy in general.  when i asked him about beaujolais, he looked at me straight in the eyes and said, in no uncertain terms: "beaujolais ne fait pas partie de la bourgogne!" which is apparently very much what many wine makers in the northern part of burgundy thinks, that beaujolais is not in burgundy.

in fact, most will know beaujolais as a simple quaffing wine.  super fruity with some aromas reminiscent of very fresh red fruits, banana, "fruit-drops", and even bubble-gum.  hardly aromas associated with the more serious wines of northern burgundy.

this simple fruit character comes from the grape but also the method of production that is traditional in beaujolais.  the wine are based on gamay, a light and simple red grape variety that is often fermented using a technique called "carbonic maceration" to give it a deeper colour and more intense aromas & fruit flavours. 

carbonic maceration is the source of those funky tastes like fruit drops and bubble gum, so typical of beaujolais nouveau.  for this to work, grapes are picked by hand and whole bunches are carefully placed inside a tank which is then sealed and carbon dioxide pumped in.  this cause the fermentation to start inside the individual berries thus getting the colour and the aromas from the skin but not getting the bitterness of the tannins and the pips.  depending on how long the wine maker will let that sort of maceration last will affect the character of the final wine.  eventually, the skins will break off and the juice will start to ferment in the normal way.

however, there are 10 crus areas in beaujolais that are also producing more serious wines with quite a bit of character of their own.  sometimes, wine makers in these crus, or particular villages, will use more traditional techniques and some may not use carbonic maceration at all and expose the wines to oak if its structure (acidity and tannins) and its fruit are intense enough for this.  their wines can be complex and satisfying, even if they can not age for a very long time, and can represent excellent value on the market.

and so last friday, i went to another great tasting hosted by the hong kong wine society and nigel bruce and we had 8 wines from "moulin à vent", which makes concentrated wines which can age up to 10 years and develop "burgundian" character.  we also had 1 from "fleurie", a wine often described as "floral" incidentally, and 1 from juliénas, which develops spicy characteristics and can age 5 years or so.

two of the wines were my favourite and it so happens were judged #1 and #3 by the society that night - as usual, you can click on the link to get my full notes in pdf based on the wset diploma format:

château des jacques grand clos de rochegres 2002 from louis jadot - moulin à vent

very good premium wine.  silky, smooth, complex, and concentrated.  excellent balance of its components.  long  & savoury after-taste shows the wine was made with excellent fruit quality.  excellent typicity of its style and still has a good structure to age some more.

château des jacques clos de grand carquelin 2002 from louis jadot - moulin à vent

very good premium wine.  intense and a good length of the after-taste.  although the alcohol slightly higher than acidity and tannins, it is well supported by excellent complexity of its aroma and palate.  a wine that has aged beautifully and still very well “together” and definitely pleasant to drink now.

the other wines we had that night were:

2002 Chateau Des Jacques Clos De La Roche, Moulin A Vent, Louis Jadot

2002 Chateau Des Jacques Clos De Champ De Cour, Moulin A Vent, Louis Jadot

2002 Chateau Des Jacques, Morgon, Louis Jadot

2004 Chateau Des Jacques, Moulin A Vent, Louis Jadot

2005 Chateau Des Jacques, Moulin A Vent, Louis Jadot

2005 Moulin-à-Vent, Olivier Merlin

2006 Fleurie, Domaine André Colonge

2006 Julienas Chateau Des Capitans, G. Duboeuf

2006 Mâcon-Cruzille, Clos des Vignes du Mayne, Bret Brothers (excellent - complex and deep)

2005 Moulin-à-Vent, Olivier Merlin

2006 Fleurie, Domaine André Colonge

 

 

Published by jc on March 15, 2009

dinner with "le club des 5"

as you know, i love passionate people and last night, i was thrilled to have dinner with 5 very passionate châteaux owners from bordeaux.

the event was organised by asc in cooperation with ginestet, a bordeaux wine merchant, and the "club des 5", an informal group of 5 bordeaux châteaux.

started in 1993, the club joins like-minded owners who each have their own and very strong personality as you would expect them to have.  based on different bordeaux terroirs, they exchange ideas, and tour the world together to promote their wines.  certainly they were charming, entertaining, and i definitely could feel solidarity among each other.

they are:

château smith-haut-lafitte - daniel cathiard
château gazin - christopher de bailliencourt
château pontet-canet - alfred tesseron
château canon-la-gaffelière - comte stephan von neipperg
château branaire-ducru - patrick maroteaux

of course, the wines were great and the company definitely excellent.

one for me was particular:

château gazin pomerol 2002:

succulent red fruits with layers of toast, oak, and spices.  soft and velvety tannins.  concentrated, deep, and very long on the after-taste.  elegant and delightful.  excellent match to our dish of goose breasts and foie-gras. 

my taste buds water as i write this down...

Published by jc on March 12, 2009

this week's tasting - riesling

love it or loath it, riesling is a special grape indeed.  producing wines of all degrees of sweetness, riesling is grown all over the world and finds it's home in germany's mosel region where it can produce some of the finest, most complex, longest lived white wines.  in fact, german rieslings were once commanding higher prices than today's most expensive bordeaux and its wines are sought after by wine lovers from all over the world.

the grape can produce wines of refreshingly high acidity with a lightness of body that is rarely matched by any other whites.  it is highly aromatic, delicate, racy, and expressive.  it can make a totally different wine depending on where it is from and sweet wines can be extremely complex with layers after layers of mind boggling flavours, refreshing acidity, and fantastic length.

from germany, wines are produced as per various levels of ripeness.  kabinett wines will be dry, crisp and light.  spätlese, one level more ripe will be off-dry and medium dry.  at their best, they will be complex, fuller, rounder with a long lingering after-taste.  up one level, auslese wines will be made from very ripe grapes in a sweeter style.

from alsace, the wines are bigger and more alcoholic with riper fruits, flavours and touch of spices.  there are various levels of sweetness and the best are from grands crus vineyards.  from austria's wachau and kremstal's regions, the best in the country for fine riesling, the wines will have similar classifications as in germany with generally higher alcohol content.

from australia, they will be fuller bodied, with limey, tangy, and tropical fruit character.  the best come clare valley and eden valley. from new zealand, especially from the cool central otago region, the softness and extreme purity of fruit will show more elegant and complex wines with peachy and kerosene characters on the nose and palate.

typically, you will find a crisp and refreshing acidity together with powerful aromas, reflecting minerals, lemon, lime, grapefruit, muscat, apples and pears.  white flowers, roses and peach.  as it evolves, wonderful spices, honey, and some say kerosene or petrol notes will be detected.

today, we tasted 4 wines from various regions of the world (our notes are available in pdf format by clicking on each link):

darting estate dürkheimer michelsberg riesling kabinett 2006 - michelsberg

an acceptable mid-level wine in balance, some varietal characteristics, but lack complexity, a little short.  more complexity on nose than palate.  simple.

kientzler – riesling grand cru 2001 - alsace good premium level.

a good intensity & extraction.  good balance of acidity and alcohol supported by quality fruit.  long satisfying length.  well made wine of richness & complexity.

gunderloch rothenberg nackenheim 2006 - rheinessen 

an acceptable premium wine.  excellent complexity, richness, extraction, and length on palate but not matched by the intensity of its aromas.  good characteristic flavours and the acidity well supported by its fruits and sweetness.

grosset springvale riesling 2007 - clare valley

a good premium level.  excellent complexity and varietal characteristics with powerful fruit flavours that supports it’s high acidity. however, the length is a little short.

these wines were purchased at marks & spencer as well as watson's wine cellar in hong kong.

Published by jc on March 8, 2009

tasting notes - the 1st series

finally today, i have started to taste some of the 200+ bottles that are now standing patiently on my dinning room floor and waiting to be opened and carefully evaluated.

so today, maria and i have started to taste as per the wset systematic apprach to tasting level 4.  we are planning to do this at least each saturday after-noon and taste at least 5-6 wines and then post our conclusion right here on this blog.

if you are familiar with wset tasting notes, i invite you to check my conclusions below and please give me your comments so that i can improve them and eventually score high in my exam in june.

here goes my notes - you can click on each wine names to download the more detailed notes in a pdf format:

fournier père & fils sancèrre 2006
a good balance of component with a good length however somewhat lacking in complexity so that difficult to perceive its orgin & varietal characteristics.  entry level wine.

marks & spencer margaret river semillon/sauvignon 2006
acceptable entry level wine.  some complexity and some intensity.  however, perception of acidification is present and acidity feels slightly unbalanced over its alcohol.  low varietal + origin characterisitcs

châteaux thieuley 2003
acceptable medium level wine.  showing characteristics of much work in the winery: oak ageing + quality fruit.  components in balance.  some complexity from fruit and production method.

pirque estate sauvignon blanc 2007
good entry level wine.  good varietal + orgin characteristics, and a good length.  however slightly lacking in elegance & finesse to be considered a premium level wine.

marks & spencer kaituna hills sauvignon blanc 2007
an excellent entry level wine.  perfect balance of components, clear characteristics of varietal + origin.  long + complex on palate.  well crafted wine made with care and quality material & techniques

these wines were purchased at watson's wine cellar and marks & spencer in hong kong central

 

Published by jc on March 1, 2009

another fantastic wine tasting with the hong kong wine society

hong kong right now is incredibly dynamic in terms of wine events and formal tastings and i beleive it is probably the best place to be for a wide-eyed neophyte like me who is super eager to learn and discover as much as i can about wine.

and so, on last friday, i was extremely fortunate to be part of another incredible tasting hosted by nigel bruce and the wine society of hong kong.  the theme was "vertical of mature barolo and barbaresco - 1952 - 1990) and it included:

Barolo Borgogno Riserva 1952

- mine and the group's favourite of the tasting = still in very good shape, incredibly complex, silky, and long on the finish savoury notes, rancio, raisins, tobacco box, tar - incredible

 

Barolo Borgogno Riserva 1958

Barolo Giuseppi Mascarello 1958

Barolo Bartolo Mascarello 1961

Barolo Borgogno Riserva 1964

Barolo Philippo Sobrero 1971

Barbaresco Angelo Gaja 1982

Barbaresco Monstefano Prunotto 1982

Barolo Brunate Bricco Rocche Ceretto 1985

Barbaresco San Stefano Bruno Giacosa 1985

Barolo Cerequio Roberto Voerzio 1990

Published by jc on February 16, 2009

a peacock's tail at pierre gagnaire's in hong kong

call me a groupie if you will, i do not mind.  i love pierre gagnaire's food and there is no denying i am start-struck each time i meet him.

and so, last night was his last evening in hong kong (for this time around that is) and i decided to surprise maria to a date and book a table at "pierre" for a break to my october diet (yes mom, a diet...).

not surprisingly, i was completely transported by the food...  and the wines selected by pierre legrandois, the excellent sommelier at the mandarin oriental hotel in hong kong.

firstly, i must confess that i was totally enchanted by the table they reserved for us.  a fantastic view over the harbour and a intimacy of the surroundings that i could only hope for in my best of dreams.  what a way to impress maria on the first "date" we have had in a long long time!

then, the extremley attentive and super kind care from everyone in the restaurant.  many people claim that french restaurant's service is cool, distant, and intimidating.  not here at pierre.  they were respectful, mindful, caring, and only enhanced the experience we had the whole evening.

and then, the food...

many people asked me today how i compared the experience with the one i had at the french laundry last month.  how can i compare, i asked, it is like asking me to compare picasso with rembrandt...

the food was certainly exotic, using asian ingredients that are not so uncommon in hong kong's fresh food markets.  the combination of those ingredients was definitely surprising and unusual.  combinations of ingredients that you would absolutely not believe they can pair together.

and that is, i am starting to believe (or, dare i say, to understand, as i am still new to this wonderful world of fine dining), the genius of pierre gagnaire.  he mixes and matches ingredients that defy conventional wisdom and food logic.  he creates a "third way" with food that is almost, i dare venture, "child-like", in the sense that his combinations can only come from the creativity of young, fresh, and widely imaginative minds that us, "grown-ups" would only frown upon. 

and yet...

yet, a mouthful of his creations carries us to another world altogether.  an intellectual challenge and a pleasure of the senses that i have only imagined in my most torrid dreams.  a gastronomic "orgasm" in all sense of the word.

all of this stimulation paired with the other pierre's wine selections.  a challenge that only a very sensitive palates must be able to accomplish.  legrandois' choices of wine have always opened new and wonderful vinous horizons for me.  each time i taste wines selected by pierre legrandois, i have learned something new and wonderful and i have discovered a higher plane of pleasure that wine could bring to my epicurist adventures.

one in particular last night give me a new sensorial sensation that i only knew existed from the books that i had read previously.  the sensation of the "peacock tail" so described about a wine that has a very long lasting after-taste that it so good in quality that it actually opens up like a peacock's tail long after you have swallowed the divine nectar.

the saint-joseph cuilleron st-pierre 2005.  to me an absolutely new and wonderful experience.  the body, the intensity, the length, the peacock tail...  what else can i say???  for me a new standard has been established in my short wine tasting career.  an experience not unlike "my very first time"....

what a night...

 

Published by jc on October 18, 2008

mustilli vs mastroberardino

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the comparison will not be completely accurate here as we are tasting a falanghina and a greco di tufo, two grapes that are something of a speciality down in italy's campania (the region around naples).

falanghina is a very ancient grape that was probably brought by the greeks in the olden days.  some say its name come from the latin "phalanga", the word to describe wooden poles the greeks used for wine training.  it almost came to extinction in campania until leonardo mustilli decided in 1979 to seriously consider how to make fine wines out of the grape.  since, several producers have caught on and planted the grapes in various terroir around the region producing some very interesting and rewarding whites.

the white grape greco was brought by the greeks to the region some 2,500 years ago and has found its home in the tufo soils of campania, especially around the small town of tufo near avellino where it earned the appellation greco di tufo docg.  it is the mastroberardino family that is generally recognized for bringing back the grape to life and make a push for it to become a fine wine.

as usual, i follow the wset systematic approach to tasting for my notes:

 

mustilli - vigna segreta 2005 - falanghina - sant'agata dei goti doc

a clear bright white wine with a deep intensity lemon yellow color at the core and a bright watery rim and some viscosity at the bowl.

a clean nose of medium + intensity and developing aromas of apricot, white flowers, touch of citrus & lime, dried almonds, cream and vanilla.

dry on the palate, with a crisp and refreshing acidity but gentle and pleasant and in balance with its medium + alcohol and body.  a medium intensity flavours of fresh white flowers, younger apricot and lime than its nose, complex with hints of spices, cloves, and cinnamon.  oily, silky on the palate with a long pleasant length of the after-taste.

a good balance, complex and intense.  long. savoury.  a good and rewarding example of a very well made falanghina.

 

mastroberardino - novaserra greco di tufo docg 2006

a clear bright white wine with medium intensity lemon flesh with hints of green hues and a clear water rim.  some viscosity at the bowl

a clean nose of medium intensity and fresh and zesty aromas of peach, orange blossom, apple, lemon, almonds.

dry on the palate with a firm, zesty acidity and medium alcohol and body.  a medium intensity of flavours recalling its nose, but more zesty, crisp, and minerally.  light, almost airy, easy on the palate and fresh.  a medium length with a spicy, if not bitter, and pleasant after-taste.

a good balance.  simple, fresh, rewarding, and easy to drink.  a good wine but slightly simpler and less rewarding than the mustilli falanghina.

 

 

Published by jc on October 11, 2008

pertinace 2005 – barbera d’alba

right now in hong kong, I am not at all happy with wine prices.  after-all, the import tax went down 80% in the last 18 months and yet, regular consumers like myself yet have to see price reductions on most wines on offer. 

 

and so, these days I make it a point to buy the cheapest wines available on lists in every restaurants we visit as well as wine shops we buy our wines.

 

ironically (or cynically?) we are told that the reason we do not see price differences on wine lists is that the selection was replaced with better quality at the same price.  really?  most restaurants I visit have not changed the list much.  those that did, from experience, seem to have a very strange idea of quality – perhaps they should attend a wset class…

 

today I was a bit sceptical when I uncorked a barbera d’alba from pertinace (vintage 2005).  firstly, we bought the wine on sale at hkd 148 at city super and secondly, on removing the foil, the cork was plastic which always gives me shivers.

 

what a surprised when maria pleasantly exclaimed that the wine was “verrry gooood”.

 

a nice, bright ruby/purple color with young black cherries and spicy aromas.  mouth watering acidity, smooth, ripe tannins and medium intensity of juicy prunes, sour cherries and christmas spices on the palates.  complex, quickly evolving glass after glass into a very intriguing perfum of violets, mint and cherries which explodes on the palate and last for a good finish.  very good quality for the price.  will definitely buy again for nice and easy drinking during the week.

 

pertinace 2005 – barbera d’alba – price hkd 148 at city super in causeway bay

 

Published by jc on August 24, 2008

lacrima di morro d'alba - selection rubbjano 2005

ever since i have started my wset diploma (touch wood i will pass my last exam), people i meet have been asking me what is my favourite wine.  normally, i duck the question because i consider myself a student and therefore in a never ending quest for knowledge (...) kidding aside, i find this a difficult question to answer because for me, wine depends so much of who i am drinking it with and what food we are also enjoying at the time.

but last night, with maria and sophie, i had my 3rd bottle of "lacrima di morro d'alba selection rubbjano 2005" by luigi guisti and i can now definitely say that it is my favourite wine - by far.

lacrima is actually a grape that is mainly grown in morro d'alba, a commune in the marches in italy.  it has actually nothing to do with alba in piedmonte.  an autochtonous variety,  it was almost extinct but was revived in the last few years by dedicated growers who are more artisan than businessmen - people of passion rather than money (just my type of people!).

thanks to the giusti patriarch who kept his old vines on his best plots for more than the last 50 years, the selection rubbjano can be crafted and the result is like "une potion ensorcelante", a magic potion.

light ruby color with dark purple hues, it has an incredible perfumed of rose petals, violets, peppermint, and vanilla.  a touch of cinnamon, and a kind of warmth on the aroma not unlike a beautifully warm summer night in the country side.  the palate is soft, silky, round, and rewarding.  the taste much like the nose but more pronounced and complex.  with a medium length of the after-taste, it leaves a nice and savoury lingering taste. 

out of 2,000+ wines that i have tasted in the last 2-3 years, this is the one that i could recognise blindfolded among all of them... je suis ensorcelé...

unfortunately, that wine is very very difficult to find as the giusti family only produce 3,000 bottles per year.  the bottle we drank last night was 1 of 12 that i was super lucky to receive as a christmas present from my super sweet wife (with the help of franco and mama italiana, of course...).

 

Published by jc on August 13, 2008

nice & shapely wine tasting at iwc

winespeak is a big concern of mine. 

i find that most wine descriptions by wine pros are actually confusing to the uninitiated (and to quite a few initiated as well) and, let's face it, most of us wine lovers of the world are uninitiated to winespeak.  we know what we like in a wine, it is just that most of the time, we find that descriptions of gooseberries, pineapples, peach, and cat wee wee does not correspond to our experience of that particular white wine. 

the challenge with wine tasting is that it's such a subjective experience that it is very difficult to pinpoint precisely what a wine taste like. that's the beauty of it some will say.  then, i ask, why do some wine magazines and reviewers seem to think that they are the ultimate authority in wine taste?  and why are most wine lovers shy to express what they taste in a glass when we ask them?

what is not so subjective however is how a wine feels on the palate and how long it lasts after we swallow (or spit, if you have a wife to meet after your tasting...).

and so, last saturday, i went to a very interesting tasting at iwc.  given in a smooth and informal manner on a saturday afternoon, simon tam demonstrated to the 10 of us how different wines had different shapes on our palate, depending on their quality and crafting methods.

some wines are big and bold, and, just like a single firework, will crackle and explode in our mouth with maximum sensation but, after a very short time, will quickly disappear leaving us in a kind of anticlimax.

other wines will be like those exciting sequences of fireworks in which, pang, pang pang, the explosions will follow each other at different intervals, giving us multiple, but disjointed sensations, and yet leaving us excited but longing for more so sudden it finishes on the palate.

some, will even tease and surprise us.  they will disappear on the after-taste to gently, but firmly come back with all kinds of new sensations.

the best however, will not be like fireworks at all.  they will slowly make themselves felt, gently caressing our palate and evolve with complexity and character.  they will last long and even develop new sensations well after we have swallowed.  more like a musical symphony, gently threading a perfect harmony of musical notes, exciting our senses and imagination well after the performance so that we will continue to hum it's melody in our mind for the whole day.

the shapes of wine.  the feeling of tasting.  short and powerful does not necessarily equals to quality.  long, complex, and intricate however, is another thing altogether.

a nice and different perspective.  shape rather than specific tastes.

Published by jc on July 21, 2008

once in a lifetime - acker merral condit wine dinner at the china club

of course, friends will tell me that last night's wine dinner was historical, at least as far as my history is concerned.  a once in a lifetime opportunity.  and to think that i almost did not go because i was completely knackered from a 3-day marathon of tastings after tastings at vinexpo hong kong in the last week.  in the end though, i could not resist.  and so, i put on a tie and made my way up to the china club, this fine hong kong institution where fine art meets chinese nostalgia of the years bygone.

acker merrall condit, this fine wine merchant, has already sent press releases after press releases informing us that they are setting up "pignon sur rue" in hong kong and so i will not repeat the details.  one thing i was told however, is that they did an unprecedented job at public relations during the week leading to today's auction with a degree of lavishness unseen anywhere, even here in hong kong. clearly, their intention is to make the most out of the abolition of wine import duties and firmly establish themselves here become the leading fine wine auction house in asia.

and so, yours truly was a recipient of this lavishness and i report here this historical wine dinner here for the record.  out of respect for these fine fine wines, i will not report individual tasting notes - i know that some of you will be most disappointed and i truly apologize...  the wines were, in order of service:

- château angelus 2005

- château angelus 2003

- château angelus 2000

- château pichon lalande 1996

- château pichon lalande 1995

- château angelus 1998

- château angelus 1990

- château angelus 1989

- château pichon lalande 1989

- château pichon lalande 1986

- château pichon lalande 1982

of course, my favourite was château angelus 2005, followed very closely by château pichon lalande 1989.  to describe the 2005 is very difficult other than to say it was as soft as cashmere.  velvety but softer than that. like what chocolate mousse is to chocolate. extremely balanced, perfumed, with lovely levely round red fruits.  a long, complex, sweet spicy after-taste.  firm on the palate yet gently caressing as if wanting to make love to it.  lovely, lovely, lovely experience.  the 1989 was completely different.  yet, nonetheless exciting.  straight and aristocratic like a british gentleman "de la haute société".  yet, it had the mysterious spiciness of a dark arabian night.  complex, elegant, long lasting.  now more tobacco box and cedar wood than fruits, yet minty and still with lingering hints of blackcurrants and other dark berries.  expressive from the first sniff with an incredible evolution in the glass throughout the evening.  a wine never to forget and a once in a lifetime wine experience.

Published by jc on May 31, 2008

barbi brunello di montalcino riserva 1999

this year, i was blessed with a fantastic 40th birthday party.  in hong kong, i had my dearest friends with me for a fantastic dinner at zest and was offered a membership at the crown cellars and franco was super generous in that he offered me a wonderful bottle of barbi brunello di montalcino riserva 1999.

last week, we had a special family dinner in hong kong and i thought the occasion appropriate.  and so, after decanting for 1 hour, the wine was absolutely fantastic:

deep, intense and complex aromas and flavours of dark chocolate, leather, tobbaco box, spices of the orient, herbs like thym & rosemary. a silky, soft like velvet mouthfeel and a super long lenght.  an excellent wine.  perfect to match our beef served with gorgonzola.

fattoria barbi is among montalcino's oldest brunello producing estate having made wine since 1790.  it is certainly a place we will visit on our next trip to tuscany.

Published by jc on May 8, 2008

corte sant' alda - valpolicella wine region, italy

talking about passionate people...  on our last trip to italy, we visited corte sant'alda in the valpolicella wine region just 1/2 hour north of verona.  what a passionate woman that is marinella camerani who is firmly in charge of this family estate.

although established in the early 80s, they have been growing organically for the past 4 years and bio-dynamically for the last 3.  they absolutely believe in the work of nature so much so that marinella is now considering using horses instead of machines in the vineyards.  their philosophy is simply to produce the best possible wines which will represent their "terroir" and purest typicity of each styles on wines.

when we visited, we tasted their whole range except, to my infinite sadness, their recioto which i had had at another occasion.

the "amarone della valpolicella 2004" was absolutely stunning so was their "valpolicella superior "mithas" 2004"which is made only when the best possible conditions exists in one of their very best vineyards, which by the way are all individually named and personally known and cherished by marinella as if they are her children.

unfortunately, it is not available in hong kong but it is possible to order by internet or, if you go to venice, stop by one of their best wine shop called vino e vini in castello (tel. 041 521 0184) where i bought my 1st bottle a few years ago.

here is the note on the "amarone della valpolicella corte sant alda 2004":

clear & bright deep ruby color with much viscosity (legs) on the bowl.  intense, concentrated prunes, dark cherries, blueberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, vanilla, liquorice.  with a medium (+) tannin, a smooth texture and long lenght of after-taste.  an excellent and super tasty wine to drink now with a nice hearty meal, possibly rosted lamb served on rosemary jus and roasted potatoes.  to keep for 10-15 years and improve most of this time.

needless to say, we bought a few cases to bring back and age in our cellar back in franco's house.

Published by jc on May 3, 2008

an excellent tasting with pierre legrandois

sommelier at the mandarin oriental in hong kong, pierre has tutored for us another excellent tasting last week in the super exclusive krug room hidden deep into the kitchens of the hotel.

the theme this time: "hidden gems of the old and new world". an excellent selection of well chosen wines that were as surprising as to where they came from as to how they tasted. of course, all are available at various restaurants and bars of the hotel.

first off, we had a super refreshing assyrtiko paris sigalas 2006 from surprising santorini. made from organically grown assyrtiko grapes: pale straw, delightful peach, pear, and minerals. slightly salty and super pleasant on the palate: light, succulent, and refreshing. would have been so perfect with shellfish, watching the sun set on my beloved mediteranean sea....

 

then, we had château bela riesling - egon muller 2004. from slovakia, a perfect representation of a riesling: medium intensity lime flesh color, floral, citrusy minerality. apple & grapefruit. slightly spicy. lovely acidity, smooth mouth feel, long length. lovely with lobster...

next on the list and to my absolute delight, maria's all time favourite: donna fugata's vigna di gabri contessa entellina 2006. i was delighted to hear that pierre carries it by the glass at "pierre", the upstairs restaurant by pierre gagnaire. produced in sicily, the wine is an excellent expression of ansonica grapes (also known as inzolia), typical of sicily. a lovely pale lemon flesh color, fresh, medium + intensity of apples, white flowers, mineral and hints of salt. a special taste, surprising on the palate. nice long finish. would be beautiful with a branzino gently steamed and served with lemon and a branch of thym...

next was alentejo esporao reserva 2005. from portugal, it is made with antao vaz, roupeiro, and arinto grapes. lovely. medium strae color. Intense aromas of vanilla, smoke, citrusy cream, with hints of honey. refreshing, lovely finish. reminiscent of a well made california chardonnay. to match, i can think of that nice roast chicken they serve at cococabana, you know the one with a lovely lemony paella and lots of thyme and lemon...

for the first red, we had carmenero ca del bosco 2001. a carmenere from lombardy in the north of italy. from a top quality producer, ca' del bosco, famous for his franciacorta sparkling wine. medium ruby, intense red fruits, plums with mint, vanilla, and spices. refreshing with a medium length on the finish.

next was a cabernet sauvignon superior barkan winery 2003. surprising red from israel. typical of a cabernet sauvignon. intense aromas & flavours. powerful ripe tannins. concentrated with a medium long finish. drink at a nice bbq and share with friends.

from spain this time, bierzo corullon descendes de j. Palacios 2005. from a region more famous for white wines vinho verde. made from mencia grapes, it had a rich ruby color with intense aromas of dark berry fruits, spicy, animal. long length. have it with roasted lamb for great pairing.

the last red was cotes de provence cuvee columelle domaine richeaume 2003. made with syrah & merlot it was dark ruby color leaving a thick brown coating on the bowl of the glass. concentrated, intense and powerful. spicy, minty, round black berry fruits, dark cherries, liquorice, pepper, plums. a lot went on at each sniff and sip. long complex length. beautiful, requests a steak, a roast. my mouth is watering just thinking about it.

to finish the tasting, pierre served us a beautiful ben rye 2004 from donna fugata. intense, complex. like drinking liquid marmalade, orange peal, apricot, spices: cinnamon, cloves, honey, grapefruits. fantastic. in fact i liked it so much that i am offering this wine to my guests at my 40th birthday dinner this week-end. don't worry franco, we will have a bottle to share together the next time you come.

a great tasting. excellent wine selection. i am impressed with pierre's wine picks. always excellent representations. wines with personality and character yes, but also with finesse and elegance in the sense that they are confident in what they are simply by being what they are, not by being show off about it. difficult to explain, i am sure you came across that type of people before and automatically wanted to be friends with them. just like these wines...

Published by jc on March 7, 2008

patrón santiago gran reserva cabernet sauvignon 2000 - tasting notes

a bottle from finca el zorzal de manuel lópez lópez (bodega) brought back from our 1st trip to buenos aires in 2004.  i have been keeping this wine in our cellar ever since and looking forward to open it. 

as usual, our tasting notes are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

apearance:

clear bright with medium intensity ruby color and breaking at the rim.  with several long thin legs caressing the glass.

nose:

clean, medium (+) intensity, developping aromas of black current, dark forest fruits, tobacco, coffee, star anis, vanilla, roasted coconut.  fresh and still young and vibrant on the nose.

palate:

dry with medium refreshing acidity, medium ripe tannins, medium alcohol and body - all in very good balance.  smooth on the palate with medium (+) intensity flavours of black currents, spices, mint, vanilla, and orasted coconut.  a little bit more austere on the palate than on the nose.  long lenght, savoury finish.  requests another sip.  lovely and fresh for an argentinean cabernet after 8 years of ageing.

conclusion:

good.  drink now but can age another 4-5 years at least and improve.  will develop lovely terciary aromas and flavours

 

 

Published by jc on March 2, 2008

argentina - terrazas de los andes - tasting notes

an interesting visit at terrazas. as i mentioned earlier, they produce extremely well-made wines. almost flawless. their wines are widely available in hong kong especillay at oliver's in prince's building in central.

as always, as a practice for my wset diploma, i base my notes on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

terrazas de los andes chardonnay 2007:

pale lemon flesh with green hues. medium intensity tropical fruits, vanilla, cream. very soft on palate yet medium (+) acidity. medium body and alcohol. medium lenght. perfect with smoke salmon and greens.

terrazas de los andes chardonnay reserva 2007 very much as previous one but more pronouced vanilla and coconut. smoky charater and slightly spicy. softer and more elegant. nice.

terrazas reserva malbec 2006

medium purple color paler at rim. medium intensity plum, violet, vanilla. hints of dry coconut. low acidity, medium tannins. medium lenght. a "proper" wine. well made, tidy, an excellent representation of an argentinean malbec.

cheval des andes 2004

a "bordeaux blend" made together with the good people of super premium bordeaux' chateau cheval blanc. unfortunately i detected a little bit (much in fact) of oxidation and i suspect the wine had been decanted much earlier for another tasting. in any case, going a little deeper and hoping it was not whishful thinking, i found:

a deep purple color and barely paler at the rim. many thick legs coating the bowl.

Beyond the hints of oxidation, medium intensity jammy dark forest fruits, dark cherries, coffee, meat, savoury spices, minth, vanilla. super concentrated on the palate. medium acidity, medium ripe round tannins, medum alcohol and body, all in perfect balance. Long lenght, complex. excellent now but will definitely age well for 5-6 years although i wonder if hints of oxidation only after a few hours of decanting is not a sign that the wine should be consumed young rather than older.

Published by jc on February 29, 2008

cobos crocodilo cabernet sauvignon 2005

tasted on our visit to vina cobos in mendoza argentina. as always, my notes are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

deep purple color and paler at rim (but not much) medium + intensity jammy black fruits, definite vanilla, roasted coconut, hints of tobacco, slightly creamy & toasty. medium acidity and tannins. concentrated and alcoholic. a big wine with a good balance. medium lenght and somewhat complex finish. drink now but can keep and certainly improve by developping complexity and better integration of oak. lovely.

Published by jc on February 29, 2008

weinert malbec 1977

on our trip to mendoza, we were super lucky to have a taste of some great wines. in particular we had a very special experience getting drunk on a 1977 malbec in front of the fireplace in our lodge casita. my tasting notes are based loosely here on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

pale ruby color with a rich amber rim.

powerful yet elegant intensity developped aromas of ripe plums, dried tobacco leaves, cigar box, pencil shavings, chocolate, spices. layers after layers.

medium acidity and medium ripe tannins with a silky mouthfeel. medium alcohol & body with amazing layers of flavours one sip plums with hints of dark cherries, the other raisins, cigar box, chocolate, pencil shavings, tobbaco leaves, coffee, sweet spices, cinamon, liquorice. and on and on. elegant and savoury with a long lenght and complex finish. definitely ready to drink but the acidity, tannins, alcohol and hints of fruits suggest this wine can still age and continue to evolve and improve.

Published by jc on February 29, 2008

viña montes - chile - tasting notes

a wonderful tour at viña montes today at apalta in the colchagua valley.  our guide pamela mujica was really first class, super informative, and very caring to give us the best tasting conditions.

the winery was absolutely amazing:  super modern with state of the art equipment yet designed according to the feng shui principles of harmony with nature and it's environement.  the whole wine making process is organised around gravity and attention to details at each step is second to none to produce top quality wines.  they even play beautiful gregorian chants in their cellars to impart some of that elegant energy to the wines as they age in new oak.

the vineyard is no less handled with care and attention.  not only that the vines are carefully trimmed and treillised in a stuning landscape but each plot is carefully studied to plant only the best variety for the specific characteristics of the terroir and optimize the character of the resulting wines.

our tasting notes, as always are based on the wset systematic approach for diploma level:

sauvignon blanc 2007 - leyda vineyard

pale lime flesh color; medium intensity aromas of grass, gooseberries, exotic fruits - lychee, passion fruit, hints of melon; refreshing acidity, medium (+) intensity flavours of fresh cut grass, gooseberries, passion fruit; medium lenght and succulent mouth watering finish.

cabernet sauvignon & carmenere 2006 - apalta vineyard rich ruby color w/ purple reflections; medium (+) intensity aromas of dark forest fruits, chocolate, coffee, spices, hints of mint & eucalyptus - lots going at each round; medium (-) acidity, medium (-) round ripe tannins, medium (+) intensity flavours of dark fruits, liquorice, tar, coffee, mint. a medium lenght w/ complex finish

montes alpha cabernet sauvignon 2005 - apalta vineyard rich ruby color; medium intensity (subtle & elegant) aromas of dark fruits - blackcurrent, black berries, blueberries, spices, pine, forest; medium (-) acidity, medium ripe tannins, medium intensity flavours of dark fruits, coffee, spices, pine. medium lenght & complex finish. wonderful & elegant.

montes alpha syrah 2006 - apalta vineyard medium purple color; medium elegant intensity aromas of young fruits cassis, blueberries, blackberries, white pepper, light spices; medium acidity, medium tannins, medium intensity flavours of ripe blueberries & blackberries, light spices. soft, subtle. juicy & succulent. medium (-) lenght & surprisingly simple finish

montes folly syrah 2005 - apalta vineyard ruby color with purple reflections; medium (+) intensity aromas blueberries, blackberries, liquorice, sweet spices, mint - very complex; medium acidity, medium ripe & round tannins, blackberries, spices, black pepper, sweet spices, mint. medium lenght and complex finish

purple angel 2005 - apalta (92 carmenere) medium ruby color; medium intensity aromas of blueberries, coffee, spices, mint; medium (-) acidity, medium (-) round tannins, medium intensity flavours of blackberries, spices, mint, coffee. medium lenght & complex finish. delightful

Published by jc on February 7, 2008

casa silva - chile - tasting notes

casa silva in the colchagua valley is a wonderful winery, it's just too bad our tour guide treated us like cattle...

here below are tasting notes for 2 out of 3 wines tasted during our visit, they are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting for diploma level:

sauvignon gris 2007

medium intensity aromas, elegant (soft & round) grassy notes with white peach, melon, white flower, touch of pineapple; medium (-) acidity, medium body & alcohol, medium intensity flavours of grass, citrus, apple, medium lenght with complex finish. sharper on the mouth than on the nose.

los lingues gran reserva carmenere 2005

medium (+) intensity aromas of round red forest fruits, savoury, coffee, chocolate, with a touch of mint, spicy, complex; medium (-) acidity, medium (-) ripe tannins, medium body, medium (+) alcohol, mediume (+) intensity flavours of savoury forest fruits, spices, coffee, chocolate, surprisingly short lenght and simple finish for so much going on the nose and on the palate.

Published by jc on February 7, 2008

chile - nice little sparkling & merlot - tasting notes

valdivieso extra brut - maipo

a great many persistent small bubbles; medium intensity aromas of brioche, lemon, apple; nice creamy mousse, medium acidity, medium intensity flavours of green apple skin, lemon cream, brioche, bread, a pleasant, mouth watering medium lenght and semi-complex structure

chateau los boldos vielles vignes - merlot 2004 - requinoa

medium (+) intensity aromas of nice round ripe red fruits - a little jammy - rasberries, ripe strawberries, red cherries, mirtles, spices, strong hints of mint; low acity, low ripe tannins, medium (+) body and alcohol, medium (+) intensity flavours of blueberries, strawberries, tar, a medium lenght and tasty finish.

Published by jc on February 5, 2008

wine 365 - santiago

last night, tired and lazy, we decided to stay at the hotel's wine bar incidentally called ''wine 365'' because they have 365 chilean wines on their list, one for each day of the year.

decor was hotel like but we sat on a nice little terrace outstide.  service is definitely lacking as we waited 1/2 hour to be asked if we wanted wine and another 1/2 to receive them.  in any case, i am not sure if this is south america or the hotel, i will let you know later.  one thing is sure is that we will not go back unless it's torrential rain outside...

i order a flight - you know i love this concept and so while i was writting my notes, my sweet maria was listening to the couple next to us having a fight...

here are my notes, the carmenère was had by maria:

Van siebenthal reserva 2006 - aconcagua - carmenere:

medium intensity aromas of forest fruits - rasberries, blueberries, blackberries, vanilla, hints of mint & eucalypteus; medium acidity, low tannins (round), medium body, high alcohol, medium intensity flavours of mint, eucalypteus, black berries, herbaceous character overall. medium lenght, simple finish

 

terrunyo 2007 - casablanca - sauvignon blanc:

medium (-) intensity aromas of grass, grapefruit, green apple, very fresh; medium (-) acidity, medium body, medium alcohol, with medium intensity flavour of lemon, grapefruits, fresh cut crass, unripe green apple, short lenght with a somewhat complex finish

 

veranda gran reserva 2006 - casablanca - chardonnay:

low intensity aromas of citrus, vanilla, hints of cream and yogurt; low acidity, medium body, medium (+) alcohol, medium intensity flavours of oak, vanilla, cream, citrus, short & simple lenght undurraga altazor 2004 - cabernet sauvignon - maipo medium intensity aromas of blackcurrents, black barries, vanilla, spices, coffee, hints of herbaceaousness; medium (-) acidity, medium ripe tannins, medium body, medium (+) alcohol, medium intensity flavours of black berries, coffee, spices, vanilla. medium & complex length.

ge 2003 emliana - bordeaux blend (biodynamic) - colchagua:

high & concentrated intensity aromas of dark fruits - blueberries, black berries, black cherries, spices - cinammon, anis, liquorice, quina, vanilla, minth; medium (-) acidity, medium tannins (unripe), medium (+) intensity flavours of dark berries, eucalypteus, mint, spices, herbaceous. Long and complex but a bitter finish

Published by jc on February 4, 2008

poggio antico altero 1997 - tasting notes

this wine has a special emotion attached to it.  we bought it on teh next day after our wedding in tuscany.  we were marrid in cortona and arranged for a whole week of touring around chianti and montalcino for our guests.

one stop on our itinerary was a lunch at the fanstastcic restaurant of poggio antico.  we had a chance to visit their cantina and it is there that we bought this wine.  too bad, we could only bring 1 bottle.

our tasting notes are based on wset systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, medium ruby core with a amber rim and a great many luscious and complex legs at the bowl

nose:

clean, developping, medium (+) intensity aromas of tar, leather, savoury spices, forest undergrowth, with hints of dark fruits, prune, figs

palate:

dry, low acidity, medium (-) tannins (round & soft), medium body, medium alcohol all in very good balance, medium (+) intensity flavours as nose, a little salty, savoury.  a medium and delicious lenght.

conclusion:

a good wine, complex with layers and layers of aromas and flavours.  ready to drink, however, hints of fruits and tannins makes us beleive it can age for some time and further develop delicious terciary flavours.

bought at the winery for eur 50

Published by jc on December 9, 2007

esporão garrafeira 2003 alentejo doc - tastings notes

ever since catavino invited me via facebook to participate to wine blog wednesday #38, i have looked for portugese wines in hong kong without much success. so it was with anticipation that i brought back a bottle from a trip to macau and we had it for dinner on last saturday:

on the nose, pleasant aromas of dark forest fruits, slightly jammy and spicy.  on the palate, concentrated, full bodied, flavours as nose with long finish.

 

Published by jc on December 9, 2007

domaines astruc - blanquette de limoux - tasting notes

during my WSET studies for the unit on sparkling wines, i look and look for a blanquette de limoux so that i can taste it and of course practice for the exam. 

i did not succeed to find one and so i was very happy when i attended a wine dinner hosted by domaine paul mas and was able to order a ew bottles to be delivered the next day to my office. 

and so, at a dinner last night, i served it to my guests and they actually liked it better than champagne.  in fact, i always thought that champagne is an acquired taste or a status symbol.  or both...  the blanquette is pleasant, delicious and accessible while being complex enough to make it a very good appetizer wine.

here is our tasting notes (brief version):

Pale golden color with fine persitent bubbles. Medium intensity, brioche, green apple, citrus, fresh mineral aromas.  dry, refreshing acidity, soft creamy mousse.  medium intensity flavour, lightly and mouthwatering citrus, less brioche on palate, yet strong hints of autolitic complexity.   delicious lenght and finish.  pleasant and delicious.

bought in hong kong hkd 158 (usd 20)


Published by jc on December 9, 2007

a great wine by glass at isola in hong kong

barbera d'alba la luna 2003 luca abrate - glass (hkd 98)

on the nose, perfumed, nice juicy red fruits with hints of vanilla and pepper.

in mouth, refreshing, smooth, juicy red fruits and vanilla. succulent finish and medium lenght.

nice and tasty, enough to order a second glass...

Published by jc on December 4, 2007

vinitaly china - shanghai december 2007

unfortunately for the exhibitors, the 9th edition of vinitaly china in shanghai was not very well attended.  a pity because some fine producers were exhibiting and i think this was really from a lack of imagination from the organisers and from not having spent enough energy promoting the event in hong kong where no one i know in the wine trade kew about the event.

it was fortunate for me however, because producers had time for me and were quite relaxed to talk about their wines and what they do back in italy.

i planned to attend the fair 2 days but ended up completing what i had come to do in only one.  i spent most of my time in the ''pavillions'' of abruzzo and sardegna and was certainly glad to meet those producers i did.

first of, was ''santa maria la palma'' from sardegna which makes our ''vino della casa'' red and white which are simple, easy to drink, easy to match with any food: the red, cannonau ''le bombarde'' which i reviewed previously in those pages and the white, vermentiono ''aragosta'' which is fragrant, peachy, stony, refreshing, and delicious.

 

then, we had wines at ''argiolas'' which were certainly of great quality and very well made, in particular the ''turriga 2003 - isola dei nuraghi'' which had a nice ruby core with purple hints at rim; aromatics of a developping wine with stewed red fruits, pepermint, hints of chocolate and coffee; refreshing acidity on the palate with a medium tannin, flavours as nose with stronger herbceous-pepperminty characters and long finish.  a good wine that will certainly age well for several years.

their vermentino ''is argiolas 2006'' was of a luscious pale gold color with fresh & youthfull aromatics of pear, pinapple, exotic fruits and hints of minerals & stones; a refreshing acidity, medium body, as delicious on the palate as it was aromatic on the nose with slightly bitter/nutty finish reminiscent of almonds.  complex, pleasant, delicious.

Published by jc on December 2, 2007

solaia 2002 (annata diversa) - antinori - tasting notes

it is always a treat when franco visits us from italy.  first because his suitcase is always full of food and wine, but best because we get to open some pretty great bottles to taste the 3 of us together.

tonight, we review the solaia 2002 annata diversa named in such a way because the weather was especially good the cabernet grapes in that year and antinori did not use sangiovese as they do usually.  the is only made with cabernet sauvignon & cabernet franc.

our tasting notes are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, deep ruby at the core and breaking at the rim, with a great many thin legs

nose:

cleam, developping with medium intensity aromas of stewed black forest fruits, pepper & savoury spices, vanilla, with hints of ageing characteristics: leather, prune.  mouthwatering and complex with layers and layers of aromas coing out at each passage

palate:

dry, medium (-) acidity, medium (-) tannins (slightly harsh), medium (+) alcohol and medium body.  medium intensity flavours as nose, savoury, a little harsh in mouth.  complex finish with medium lenght.

conclusion:

good.  not exceptional.  acceptable complexity, a good balance, young enough with enough tannins and acidity to offer potential for ageing.  ready to drink but can age another 2-3 years.

 

Published by jc on December 2, 2007

dinner at spasso hong kong


on my way back from china by ferry, i decided to try out this new place spasso in ocean center at harbour city.  it was very early so i did not have a chance to see it in full swing.  what i saw however is that they are very serious about trainning. 

i sat on the terrace overlooking the harbour (with a partial view from central to sheung wan and kennedy town) which was spacious and airy. 

the menu is traditional italian offering guests a culinary trip around italy with full of mouthwatering & interesting dishes and a large wine by the glass list.  thanks on behalf of wine lovers, i was assured that all wines are kept at the proper temperature in a eurocave cellar.

for my main i had the "black pepper pappardelle tossed with wild boar ragout".  it was delicious and perfect with my glass of zenato ripassa.

for a style, funky atmosphere, and the prelude of a good night out, spasso is definitely the hippest italian restaurant on that side of hong kong.

RIPASSA DI VALPOLLICELLA ZENATO 2005 (hkd 118 - glass) a pleasant aromatic of young ripe red & black forest fruits with vanilla, chocolate, and pepper; low acidity and smooth tannins.  medium body and high levels of alcohol.  flavours as nose but more spicy, with a medium lenght.. Pleasant mouthfeel, fruity yet spicy - delicious.

spasso: # 403, ocean centre, harbour city, kowloon, hong kong, tel. +852 2730 8027

Published by jc on November 21, 2007

san felice wine dinner at cipriani - 19 november 2007

As strange as it might appear, I love to go for dinner by myself.  not that i do not like good company mind you. 

it is just that my imagination goes absolutely wild when i dine alone.   it gives me a buzz to watch the service, listen to bits and pieces of conversations going on around me.  but most of all, i love observing people.  how they behave in groups, how they behave towards me, alone at my table.  it is the body language that tells me so much, or rather trigger my imagination.  i love to invent stories about one or the other, to imagine what they think, where they could be coming from, where they could be going next .  sometimes, this makes me sad, especially when i see someone who appears not to be assuming himself to the extent that i feel he should.  other times it makes me laugh at how arrogant or pompous others behave towards their guests or kin.  all the while, i love to watch and to make up stories. 

perhaps it helps me learn about myself?  as they say, what we see in other people is actually what we see in ourselves...

in any case... we are here for the wine and so:

VERMENTINO DI MAREMMA 2006 - matched to tuna tartare
pale golden color, aromatic with floral aromas; nice refreshing acidity, with simple flavour as it should for its kind.  fresh pears, citrus, lime skin, slightly peppery.  medium lenght.  pleasant as appetizer.

CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA IL GRIGIO 2004 - matched to risotto with radicchio di treviso
pale ruby, nice aromatic of dark forest fruits, spices, forest underwood; low acidity, medium body & alcohol, soft tannins, flavours as nose, smoky, medium lenght, fruity finish.  pleasant.

VIGORELLO 2001 - matched with rack of lamb with vintage balsamic sauce
medium ruby with purple tints.  aromatic of dark forest fruits: blackberries, black currents, blueberries and vanilla, low acidity, medium + tannin (slightly harsh), medium + body, palate as nose with hints of chocolate and tobacco box.  medium lenght with a fruity finish.  can drink now and can age.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO CAMPOGIOVANNI 2001 - matched with rack of lamb with vintage balsamic sauce
deep ruby, aromatic of dark forest fruits, slightly herbaceous, with hints of minth and tobacco, vanilla; medium acidity,  medium ripe tannins, flavours as nose but fruitier and with a complex, spicy finish.   medium lenght.  a good wine, pleasant and complex.

VIN SANTO DEL CHIANI CLASSICO 2002 - matched with mango cheese cake with zabaione sauce
deep gold color, aromatic of creme caramel, slightly burnt sugar, raisins, dark honey; sweet, low acidity, full body, flavours as nose, slightly spicy: cinnamon, vanilla, long  and complex finish.  good.

GRAPPA DI BRUNELLO CAMPOGIOVANNI - matched with tea or coffee

 

Published by jc on November 20, 2007

a great wine at isola: vermentino

yes!  i found a great wine on isola's list, finally.  vermentino di gallura 2006, giogantinu from sardegna.  price at hkd 450, it was great value for money:

nice pale lime-flesh color, aromatic, pear, peach, lime and a stony, mineral note typical vermentino aroma that reminds one of fresh mediterrenean seafood.  a refreshing acidity, complex palate as nose and long lenght.  peppery, fresh, and tasty.

i will buy it again.

Published by jc on November 18, 2007

wine tasting with pierre legrandois

i have a very nice wine tasting at the mandarin oriental last saturday with pierre legrandois, the cheif somelier for the hotel in hong kong.

firstly, the setting was certainly impressive being in the super exclusive krug room located right in the middle of the hotel kitchen with a stunning marbe table and an entire wall being a floor to ceiling window overlooking the action on the kitchen.

pierre legrandois is a very ''sympathique'' somelier who is passionate about wine and certainly very knowledgeable.  his approach was entirely casual and accessible: he was there to demistify wine and to give us a tour of the most typical wines that we may encounter in all good quality restaurants.

for me, being at diploma level of WSET, the information he provided was mostly a review of what i had heard before in other tastings and classes.  however, it was delivered with insight and enthusiasm and that made me feel very comfortable with what i have learned until now.

his selection was classic and very interesting in that the wines we tasted were very good representations of their kind and the quality was outstanding. 

we tasted:

white:

2003 riesling cuvee f. emile trimbach, alsace france

2004 chassagne montrachet fontaine gagnard, burgundy france

2006 sauvignon blanc leewin estate, margaret river australia

red:

2004 gevrey chambertin vielles vignes f. magnien, burgundy france

2001 brunello di montalcino siro pacenti, tuscany italy (my favourite, described below)

2003 cabernet suavignon voyager estate, margaret river australia

 

2001 brunello di montalcino siro pacenti - tasting notes:

our tasting notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting (diploma level 4 - light wines):

appearance:

clear bright, deep ruby red at the core with tints of purple.  with a paler rim and plenty of long, and luscious legs at the bowl.

nose:

clean, developping, medium (+) aromas of dark forest fruits - blackcurrents, blackberries, blueberries, gamey (animal/meaty), spciy, loquorice, vanilla.  complex and at the same time elegant.

flavours:

dry, medium acidity, medium (-) tannins (ripe and round), full body, medium (+) alcohol.  medium intensity as nose. characters of tobbaco box, raisins and toffee. complex, savoury, and long lasting. pleasant and soft on the palate.

conclusion:

complex, long lasting and savoury.  each nose and sip reveals layers and layers of aromas and flavours.  very well balanced and pleasant on palate.

a good wine to drink now but can be kept for years.

 

Published by jc on November 18, 2007

wollersheim domaine reserve 2005 - tasting notes

on my last trip to madison, wisconsin, everyone thought i was joking when i said i wanted to buy the local wine.  in fact, it was not easy to find as well.  i was so surprised by this and also disappointed.  we had to go to 3 different wine shop before we cold find a decent bottle. 

we then went for dinner at one of the top streakhouse in madison to be told they it would not be possible to drink our bottle.  ok, i said, in that case, we will drink the local wine on your list.  the waiter told us they did not have such!  it in only by insisting and speaking with the manager that they realised that in fact, they did have one choice... 

i do not understand this.  madison is the capital of wisconsin and i had read in some magazine prior to my trip that wisconsin actually has an up an coming wine industry that is definitely worth to look at.

and so finally, i bought a bottle from wollersheim winery, which i was told was a leading winery and one that actually won some awards before.

finally, i opened it with alexandre who thought i was joking and we were pleasantly surprised by what we poured in our glass.

as usual, our tasting notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting (level 4 diploma - light wines):

appearance:

clear bright, medium ruby red a core, breaking paler at rim.  with many thin and ong legs around the bowl

nose:

clean, youthful, with medium intensity aromas of soft red fruit, smoke, vanilla, and hints of pepermint.  a soft nose, pleasant and perfumed

palate:

dry, low acidity, low tannin (ripe and round), medium + alcohol and medium body.  medium intensity flavours as nose with more pronounced pepper and vanilla.  medium - lenght.  very well balanced, with a very soft mouthfeel and pleasant complexity.

conclusion:

certainly acceptable if not good.  it is soft, pleasant, with some complexity and very well balanced.  unfortunately the lenght is short.

ready to drink, can age 2-3 years.

bought in madison wisonsin, april 2007 for usd 35 in a nice wine shop outstide of town which i forget the name but the good people of madison would know as they serve food and have a super nice selection of cheezes and also a wide range of beers.

 

Published by jc on November 17, 2007

les domaines paul mas wine dinner at the fcc - 14 november 07


PAUL MAS CHA CHA CHA CHARDONAY 2006
nose of butter, vanilla, pineapple and lemon.  medium acidity, body and alcohol, medium - intensity flavours of lemon, butter, and vanilla. Exotic fruits, smoke and flint.

DOMAINE PAUL MAS QUE SERA SIRAH SYRAH 2006
nose of young dark forest fruit, creamy, slighty spicy/peppery, vanilla, and slightly savoury
medium- acidity, low tannin (slightly harsh), medium body and alcohol.   medium intensity flavours as nose, with medium - lenght and peppery finish.

PAUL MAS SAVIGNAC PROPRIETOR RESERVE 2001
nose of stewed black fruits, vanilla and smoke.  hints of rasberries and soft red fruits.
Low acidity, low tannin, medium body & alcohol.  medium intensity flavour of soft red fruits, soft on the palate w/ a medium - finish.  simple and easy to drink.

DOMAINE ASTUC MUSCAT ST-JEAN MINERVOIS 2005

Published by jc on November 14, 2007

Lodola Nuova 2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Ruffino - Tasting Notes

our notes are based on the WSET Systematic Approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, medium intensity ruby red at core, breaking at rim, with some legs

nose:

clean, youthful, medium (-) intensity aromas of fruits of the forest, black cherries, some vanilla

palate:

dry with a medium (+) acidity, low tannin, medium (+) alcohol level, medium (-) body, medium (-) intensity flavours as nose.  short lenght.  feels sharp and thin on the palate, somewhat unbalanced.  calls for food, will food compensate?

conclusion:

acceptable, barely.  although of an acceptable quality, a disappointment.  feels thin and sharp, not much complexity and a disapointing finish. drink now, if at all.

bought in hong kong at olivers for hkd 295 (usd 37) on 03 november 07

Published by jc on November 3, 2007

Inniskillin 2004 icewine - riesling - Tasting Notes

our notes are based on WSET Systematic Approach to tasting:

appearance:
clear bright with deep intensity golden color at the core and watery rim. with several thick luscious legs at the bowl.

nose:
clean, developping, medium (+) intensity aromas of dried fruits - raisins, apricots with layers of nuttiness, petrol, honey.

palate:
sweet with a medium acidity, medium (-) alcohol level, and a full body.   medium (+) intensity flavours at first of candied citrus fruits evolving to honey, dried apricots, hazelnuts.  with a smooth silky texture that covers the whole tongue like satin.  a long lingering finish teasing you to take another sip.

conclusion:
a good wine.  complex aromas & flavours.  beautiful texture on the palate and long finish

this bottle was offered as a gift from my parents in november 2006 and was purchased at the inniskillin estate in september 2006

Published by jc on November 2, 2007

endrizzi masetto nero 2004 - tasting notes

our notes are based on WSET Systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright with medium intensity ruby at core with purple reflections, breaking at rim and many legs on the sides of the bowl

nose:

clean, youthful, medium (+) intensity & complex aromas of dark forest fruits, hints of leather & tobbaco, smokee, savoury and mouthwatering

palate:

dry, medium (-) acidity, medium (-) & ripe tannin, medium (+) alcohol level, medium body, medium (+) intensity & complexity of flavours: as nose, with hints of fresh red fruits. silky on the palate with a medium lenght and peppery finish

conclusion:

a good wine, complexity, lenght, texture that makes it pleasant to drink on its own or with food.  each sip is lingering long enough leaving a nice mouthering finish to invite the drinker for more.

drink now.

bought in hong kong at il bel paese, 85 caine road, mid-levels, hkd 330 (usd 42-)

Published by jc on October 14, 2007

woodstock the stocks shiraz 2004 - tasting notes

our tasting notes are based on WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright with a deep intensity purple at the core all the way to the rim, multiple unctuous & luscious legs at bowl.

nose:

clean, youthful, medium intensity of black pepper, red current, black berries, blue berries fruits - jammy & spicy.  layers of roses, dark chocolate, leather, tobbacco.

palate:

dry, medium (-) acidity, medium (-) tannin, high alcohol level (almost hot), medium body, medium (+) intensity as nose with a nice soft and silky mouthfeel and a medium lenght.

conclusion:

a good wine, plenty of promise from the complexity of its nose and pleasant to drink with enough complexity to make it look forward to another sip.  however, a big wine, almost hot in alcohol.  to drink now.

Published by jc on October 12, 2007

villa bucci riserva 2003 verdicchio dei castelli di jesi - tasting notes

our tasting notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright with medium intensity pale straw yellow at the core and watery rim, with plenty of legs at the bowl

nose:

clean, youthful, with medium intensity aromas of haselnut, white pepper, vanilla, smoke, and citrus

palate:

dry, low acidity, high alcohol level, medium body, medium intensity flavours as nose with hints of honey and apple, with medium lenght and nice peppery finish

conclusion:

a wine that is definitely better served fresh rather than cold/cool as it showed much more complexity on the nose and palate as it was becoming warmer.  a nice fresh wine to drink, well balanced and a very good representation of its kind.

 

Published by jc on October 3, 2007

la face cachée de la pomme - neige 2004 - tasting notes

an amazing little discovery, we had this wine together with desert at a birthday brunch this week-end. 

as i brought this wine all the way from canada as a kind of experiment, i only served 2-3 glasses to those i thought would know how to appreciate it. within 5 minutes everyone at the party (about 25 people) wanted to taste at least a sip, to see the reactions and the word of mouth spreading like wildfire in the room was in itself quite an experience....

reviewed using the WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright of medium intensity golden color with luscious legs at the bowl

nose:

clean with medium (+) intensity, developping. aromas of apple skins, orange blossom, honey,  with medicinal characteristics reminding one of a spirit rather than a sweet wine

palate:

sweet with medium acidity and medium alcohol level.  a medium (-) body with medium (+) intensity of orange blossom, honey, apricot, ripe apple, pinapples.  a complex, fresh, and luscious palate with a long finish and watery freshness that calls for another sip.

conclusion:

good: a fine balance between acidity, flavours, and alcohol level.  a very refreshing wine which shows smoothness and complexity of flavours.

a very surprising discovery considering that it is made from frozen apples and not from grapes.  definitely to look for.

Published by jc on September 24, 2007

santa maria la palma - le bombarde cannonau di sardegna 2005 - tasting notes

our notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, pale intensity purple-ruby color and pale at the rim with several thin legs at the bowl

nose:

clean, of medium (-) intensity, youthful with aromas of blackcurrants, black cherries and pepper.

palate:

dry, with medium (-) acidity & low tannin.  medium level of alcohol and medium body.  medium intensity falvours as palate: black current, pepper, rasberries.  a medium (-) finish and simple level of complexity. balanced and a pleasant mouthfeel.

conclusion:

an acceptable wine.  pleasant on the palate.  offers slight complexity and well balanced.  suitable for dinner in good company.  not a wine to meditate upon but can be enjoyed now - not to keep.

 

Published by jc on September 18, 2007

aldegheri - amarone della valpolicella classico 1997 - tasting notes

our notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, opaque purple ruby color with much lucsciou legs on the bowl of the glass

nose:

clean with a medium (+) intensity.  developping with fruity characteristics of stewed dark forest fruits - blackberries, blueberries and dark cherries.  with hints of black pepper and leather.

palate:

dry with a fairly balanced medium (-) acidity & medium tannin (round) with a high alcohol level and full body.  medium (+) intensity flavours much as nose but with more pronounced pepper and leather on the finish.  a medium and silky finish.

conclusion:

a good quality wine.  with a good level of acidity, tannin and fruit still present, a fairly complex wine, it is ready to drink but can age for further terciary complexity development. 

Published by jc on September 17, 2007

1961 & other 1960s bordeaux great growths - tasting notes

at a tasting saturday, i had an amazing experience.  in fact the whole tasting was a kind of nirvana of the wine world.

i was carefully warned before arriving that it was possible that 6 out of the 8 we were about to taste would be in poor condition and there was a possibility that none of those 6 would be drinkable.  it must be said that 6 of those were bordeaux made in the 60's. 

 in order of tasting we were served:

- chateau de pez 1995 - which was a kind of ''insurance policy''

- chateau latour 1967

- chateau latour 1966

- chateau beychevelle 1961

- chateau leoville-barton 1962

- chateau leoville-barton 1961

- chateau ducru-beaucaillou 1961

- moss wood margaret rive cabernet sauvignon 1994 - a ''plan b'', albeit an delicious one

to the utter amazement (or relief...) of our tutor, all wines were in perfect condition!  at last, after 3 years of studying about wine and being told that wines of such and such quality must acheive such and such greatness after ageing, i had the chance to experience for myself what the ''fuss is all about''.  and an experience it was! 

alas, like a drug addict on crack, i am now hooked!!  how can i ever go back to drink this infect ''piquette'' they serve us in most restaurant in hong kong???

here, i try to describe the chateau ducru-beaucaillou 1961 - described as the ''quintessential bordeaux'' and one of the best example of an aged bordeaux

appearance:

clear bright (yes, even after 46 years...) of pale yet rich intentsity tawny color at the core and a wide brown rim breaking and mahogany at the edge.  with several luscious legs at slipering along the bowl of my glass...

nose:

clean (alleluia!), of medium (+) intensity, fully developped with savoury and complex aromas of tobbaco, dark chocolate, spices, tar, cedarwood..

palate:

dry with low acidity, low tannins and medium (-) alcohol level.  a medium (-) body with medium (+) intensity of delicious flavours of humid tobacco with dark cholate laced with black pepper, a touch of cardamon and cedar, a slight savoury edge.  a long, delicious, and savoury finish.  silky and soft on the palate.

amazing quality, balance, and complexity.  a fantastic experience early in my wine career...

Published by jc on September 17, 2007

piedmont - wine II

on our last day, we had a bit of a threat when visited the distilleria del barbaresco very early in the morning.  no we did not taste grappa, but Franco at the distelleria was good enough to show us inside out and explain with much brillance the whole process of distillation.  unfortunately, there was not vinaccia to distill on that morning but we nonetheless were able to see everything.

then, the super threat was when we visited GAJA.

and what a tour the kind and friendly Sonia Franco gave us.  as we walked through the cellars among the barrique she talked about the Gaja family and its evolution through the generations, their ideals, and passion for quality, tradition, and their desire to push the limits to reach ever higher levels of quality.

i was impressed how they are uncompromising and completely and totally invested in what they do.  the cellars are beautiful, going from one building and extending under the street of barbaresco to reach the castle on the other side.  they are beautifully laid out and throughout you can feel the love, the passion, the commitment.

we ended our tour at the tasting room where the entire collection was displayed and we were told the story of each wines and how their names came about, the history behind each and the deep meaning that each wines have for the Gaja family.  everything is considered in relations to the rich history of the family, calling deep rooted feelings that, when you taste the wine, goes beyond the grape and the terroir itself.  as if, knowing the philosophical and historical background of each wine, you come to understand its personality a little better as you drink it.  i had never thought or experienced that before, but at Gaja, love, passion, and tradition transcend everything they do.

we tasted their ALTENI DI BRASSICA 2000 made from sauvignon blanc.  with intense floral aromas with smoke and hints of honey, its palate of grapefruit, honey and an refershing acidity with a nice long lenght.

the CAMARCANDA 2004, was still young and fresh with jammy red fruits - strawberries, rasberries with a medium acidity and tannin and a nice spicy, almost peppery finish.

BARBARESCO 2004: a fantastic wine.  beautiful clear bright ruby color, with medium intensity aromas of fresh forest fruits, berries, and licorice.  a very well balanced palate with its acidity, soft ripe tannins, and flavours marrying each other perfectly.  a long richly fruity lenght of complexity and savouriness which waters my mouth only thinking about it now.  definitely a great wine which, in my humble experience, i think will be a great fine wine.  to keep for many years.

and finally, SPERSS 1989.  intense aromas of tobacco, smoke, and still after 8 years strong hints of dark forest fruits.  on the palate, a fine balance of acidity and tannins with flavours of black fruits, liquorice and tar.  delicious now but can keep.

in all, a super tasting that all of us will never forget.  Sonia, we were fans before visiting you, we are definitely disciples now!  thanks!

after our lunch at arsivoli, we headed towards BAROLO where we unfortunately did not spend enough time on this trip.  although i am discovering myself to be a barbaresco guy, we have visited the cellars of GIANNI GAGLIARDO and tasted a nice PREVE BAROLO 2004.  a beautiful ruby color with soft and complex aromas of dark fruits and spices. a medium acidity with high levels of tannins - a little bit coarser than a barbaresco) and fresh yet complex flavours of cherries, mulberries, and spice. with a nice long complex finish.

Published by jc on September 17, 2007

piedmont - wines I

of course, we had wine, plenty of it. our tour brought us to some fine wineries indeed:

- poderi colla:

the first winery of our tour where we tasted a tough, very tannic nebbiolo d'alba 2004.  a fine color and aromas alright, but a palate that is almost unforgetable so much it gripped to the gums, tongue, and palate... i was told that such wine need food to be appreciated at its just value - this always makes me cringe... 

we then had a much easier to drink barbarera d'alba 2004 which gave us a fine representation indeed of its kind.  it is at this point that, while trying to concluded our tasting, our host perhaps realised that he underestimated our ability to differeniate between common and good and so we launched into a serious discussion about tannin and balance and how the nebbiolo we had just tasted had much too much of the former and seriously not enough of the later. 

and so, he hurried to the cellar and brought back a very decent bottle of barbaresco roncaglia 2004 which shows much promises as its fruit, acidity and tannin was showing a much better balance and complexity of aromas and palate. 

i am still learning and this tasting was certainly an eye opener for me to realise that i know much more than i thought and that this kind of tasting helps much in building the confidence necessary to evaluate and discuss a wine versus another.

- valter bera:

a very special experience firstly because the location of this winery is absolutely stunning and secondly because the lack of pretention shown by valter bera was so refreshing - after-all, i was told and read that he makes some of the best moscato in italy and so, i was pleasantly surprised.  we arrived in the middle of a lunch they were hosting for rai television and so did not know too much what to make of us even though we had confirmed our appointment weeks before.

nevertheless they were good enough to arrange one of their colleague to take good care of us and he started by pooring a nice bottle of dolcetto d'alba 2004.  however, we had come specifically for their moscato d'asti and their asti.  in particular, i wanted to see for myself the method of production that i just learned in my diploma classes in this last semestre.

we tasted and we experienced.  moscato d'asti had a nice pale straw color with fine persitent bubbles, medium intensity aromas of flowers, white peach, lightly sweet with low levels of acidity, fresh, fruity flavours of apple skin and hints of honey with a nice delicate soft mousse and medium (+0) after-taste.  a nice good quality wine.  the asti was much the same s the moscato but a little drier with more tropical fruits qualities and slightly more agressive mousse although, as the moscato, persistent and fine.

i was explained later that they obtain such fine mousse because they close the tank as soon as they fill it up with the moscato and use a special yeast to obtain delicatness and complexity.

we left with much moscato, asti, and also a moscato passito they make on the side which i am told is wonderful.

 

Published by jc on September 13, 2007

vigna senza nome 2005 moscato d'asit docg - tasting notes

our notes are based on WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright with a medium intensity straw yellow. with medium size bubbles of medium persistence.

nose:

clean of medium intensity, youthful, with aromas of stone fruits: apricots, white peach with hints of honey and orange blossom

palate:

medium sweet with low acidity, nice creamy mousse and low alcohol levels.  with a medium body and medium intensity of flavours as nose with a medium lenght

conclusions:

good representation of moscato d'asti:  it balances very well the sweetness with its flavours, acidity and lenght.  a pleasant cream feel on the palate with a delicate complexity on the finish.

 

please do not hesitate to let us know your comments on our notes and tell us how we can improve them!

Published by jc on August 20, 2007

monte real rioja - reserva 1994 - tasting notes

our notes follow the guidelines of WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright of medium intensity garnet color with a tawny rim and several luscious legs

nose:

clean of medium (+) intensity, although fully developped with aroma characteristics of a well developped rioja: plums, raisins, tobacco, leather, cloves, we can still perceive hints of berry fruits

palate:

dry with low acidity and medium (-) tannin, medium (+) alcohol level and a medium body, medium flavour intensity of a developped rioja: raisins, hints of plums & tobacco.  nice hints of dark berries on the finish.

slightly off balance with alcohol a little higher than the flavours, with a medium (-) lenght.

conclusion:

good, however, the palate does not fulfill the promise of the nose but the flavours although not as intense as the bouquet still offer a nice complexity and succulent after-taste. 

hints of tannins and fruits makes us beleive the wine can age for some time.

 

please let us know your comments on our notes.  do you agree?  do you have advice on our style?

Published by jc on August 12, 2007