a peacock's tail at pierre gagnaire's in hong kong

call me a groupie if you will, i do not mind.  i love pierre gagnaire's food and there is no denying i am start-struck each time i meet him.

and so, last night was his last evening in hong kong (for this time around that is) and i decided to surprise maria to a date and book a table at "pierre" for a break to my october diet (yes mom, a diet...).

not surprisingly, i was completely transported by the food...  and the wines selected by pierre legrandois, the excellent sommelier at the mandarin oriental hotel in hong kong.

firstly, i must confess that i was totally enchanted by the table they reserved for us.  a fantastic view over the harbour and a intimacy of the surroundings that i could only hope for in my best of dreams.  what a way to impress maria on the first "date" we have had in a long long time!

then, the extremley attentive and super kind care from everyone in the restaurant.  many people claim that french restaurant's service is cool, distant, and intimidating.  not here at pierre.  they were respectful, mindful, caring, and only enhanced the experience we had the whole evening.

and then, the food...

many people asked me today how i compared the experience with the one i had at the french laundry last month.  how can i compare, i asked, it is like asking me to compare picasso with rembrandt...

the food was certainly exotic, using asian ingredients that are not so uncommon in hong kong's fresh food markets.  the combination of those ingredients was definitely surprising and unusual.  combinations of ingredients that you would absolutely not believe they can pair together.

and that is, i am starting to believe (or, dare i say, to understand, as i am still new to this wonderful world of fine dining), the genius of pierre gagnaire.  he mixes and matches ingredients that defy conventional wisdom and food logic.  he creates a "third way" with food that is almost, i dare venture, "child-like", in the sense that his combinations can only come from the creativity of young, fresh, and widely imaginative minds that us, "grown-ups" would only frown upon. 

and yet...

yet, a mouthful of his creations carries us to another world altogether.  an intellectual challenge and a pleasure of the senses that i have only imagined in my most torrid dreams.  a gastronomic "orgasm" in all sense of the word.

all of this stimulation paired with the other pierre's wine selections.  a challenge that only a very sensitive palates must be able to accomplish.  legrandois' choices of wine have always opened new and wonderful vinous horizons for me.  each time i taste wines selected by pierre legrandois, i have learned something new and wonderful and i have discovered a higher plane of pleasure that wine could bring to my epicurist adventures.

one in particular last night give me a new sensorial sensation that i only knew existed from the books that i had read previously.  the sensation of the "peacock tail" so described about a wine that has a very long lasting after-taste that it so good in quality that it actually opens up like a peacock's tail long after you have swallowed the divine nectar.

the saint-joseph cuilleron st-pierre 2005.  to me an absolutely new and wonderful experience.  the body, the intensity, the length, the peacock tail...  what else can i say???  for me a new standard has been established in my short wine tasting career.  an experience not unlike "my very first time"....

what a night...

 

Published by jc on October 18, 2008

once in a lifetime - acker merral condit wine dinner at the china club

of course, friends will tell me that last night's wine dinner was historical, at least as far as my history is concerned.  a once in a lifetime opportunity.  and to think that i almost did not go because i was completely knackered from a 3-day marathon of tastings after tastings at vinexpo hong kong in the last week.  in the end though, i could not resist.  and so, i put on a tie and made my way up to the china club, this fine hong kong institution where fine art meets chinese nostalgia of the years bygone.

acker merrall condit, this fine wine merchant, has already sent press releases after press releases informing us that they are setting up "pignon sur rue" in hong kong and so i will not repeat the details.  one thing i was told however, is that they did an unprecedented job at public relations during the week leading to today's auction with a degree of lavishness unseen anywhere, even here in hong kong. clearly, their intention is to make the most out of the abolition of wine import duties and firmly establish themselves here become the leading fine wine auction house in asia.

and so, yours truly was a recipient of this lavishness and i report here this historical wine dinner here for the record.  out of respect for these fine fine wines, i will not report individual tasting notes - i know that some of you will be most disappointed and i truly apologize...  the wines were, in order of service:

- château angelus 2005

- château angelus 2003

- château angelus 2000

- château pichon lalande 1996

- château pichon lalande 1995

- château angelus 1998

- château angelus 1990

- château angelus 1989

- château pichon lalande 1989

- château pichon lalande 1986

- château pichon lalande 1982

of course, my favourite was château angelus 2005, followed very closely by château pichon lalande 1989.  to describe the 2005 is very difficult other than to say it was as soft as cashmere.  velvety but softer than that. like what chocolate mousse is to chocolate. extremely balanced, perfumed, with lovely levely round red fruits.  a long, complex, sweet spicy after-taste.  firm on the palate yet gently caressing as if wanting to make love to it.  lovely, lovely, lovely experience.  the 1989 was completely different.  yet, nonetheless exciting.  straight and aristocratic like a british gentleman "de la haute société".  yet, it had the mysterious spiciness of a dark arabian night.  complex, elegant, long lasting.  now more tobacco box and cedar wood than fruits, yet minty and still with lingering hints of blackcurrants and other dark berries.  expressive from the first sniff with an incredible evolution in the glass throughout the evening.  a wine never to forget and a once in a lifetime wine experience.

Published by jc on May 31, 2008

an excellent tasting with pierre legrandois

sommelier at the mandarin oriental in hong kong, pierre has tutored for us another excellent tasting last week in the super exclusive krug room hidden deep into the kitchens of the hotel.

the theme this time: "hidden gems of the old and new world". an excellent selection of well chosen wines that were as surprising as to where they came from as to how they tasted. of course, all are available at various restaurants and bars of the hotel.

first off, we had a super refreshing assyrtiko paris sigalas 2006 from surprising santorini. made from organically grown assyrtiko grapes: pale straw, delightful peach, pear, and minerals. slightly salty and super pleasant on the palate: light, succulent, and refreshing. would have been so perfect with shellfish, watching the sun set on my beloved mediteranean sea....

 

then, we had château bela riesling - egon muller 2004. from slovakia, a perfect representation of a riesling: medium intensity lime flesh color, floral, citrusy minerality. apple & grapefruit. slightly spicy. lovely acidity, smooth mouth feel, long length. lovely with lobster...

next on the list and to my absolute delight, maria's all time favourite: donna fugata's vigna di gabri contessa entellina 2006. i was delighted to hear that pierre carries it by the glass at "pierre", the upstairs restaurant by pierre gagnaire. produced in sicily, the wine is an excellent expression of ansonica grapes (also known as inzolia), typical of sicily. a lovely pale lemon flesh color, fresh, medium + intensity of apples, white flowers, mineral and hints of salt. a special taste, surprising on the palate. nice long finish. would be beautiful with a branzino gently steamed and served with lemon and a branch of thym...

next was alentejo esporao reserva 2005. from portugal, it is made with antao vaz, roupeiro, and arinto grapes. lovely. medium strae color. Intense aromas of vanilla, smoke, citrusy cream, with hints of honey. refreshing, lovely finish. reminiscent of a well made california chardonnay. to match, i can think of that nice roast chicken they serve at cococabana, you know the one with a lovely lemony paella and lots of thyme and lemon...

for the first red, we had carmenero ca del bosco 2001. a carmenere from lombardy in the north of italy. from a top quality producer, ca' del bosco, famous for his franciacorta sparkling wine. medium ruby, intense red fruits, plums with mint, vanilla, and spices. refreshing with a medium length on the finish.

next was a cabernet sauvignon superior barkan winery 2003. surprising red from israel. typical of a cabernet sauvignon. intense aromas & flavours. powerful ripe tannins. concentrated with a medium long finish. drink at a nice bbq and share with friends.

from spain this time, bierzo corullon descendes de j. Palacios 2005. from a region more famous for white wines vinho verde. made from mencia grapes, it had a rich ruby color with intense aromas of dark berry fruits, spicy, animal. long length. have it with roasted lamb for great pairing.

the last red was cotes de provence cuvee columelle domaine richeaume 2003. made with syrah & merlot it was dark ruby color leaving a thick brown coating on the bowl of the glass. concentrated, intense and powerful. spicy, minty, round black berry fruits, dark cherries, liquorice, pepper, plums. a lot went on at each sniff and sip. long complex length. beautiful, requests a steak, a roast. my mouth is watering just thinking about it.

to finish the tasting, pierre served us a beautiful ben rye 2004 from donna fugata. intense, complex. like drinking liquid marmalade, orange peal, apricot, spices: cinnamon, cloves, honey, grapefruits. fantastic. in fact i liked it so much that i am offering this wine to my guests at my 40th birthday dinner this week-end. don't worry franco, we will have a bottle to share together the next time you come.

a great tasting. excellent wine selection. i am impressed with pierre's wine picks. always excellent representations. wines with personality and character yes, but also with finesse and elegance in the sense that they are confident in what they are simply by being what they are, not by being show off about it. difficult to explain, i am sure you came across that type of people before and automatically wanted to be friends with them. just like these wines...

Published by jc on March 7, 2008

l'entracte - la rochelle, france

it's not always easy to choose a restaurant between two that are empty. to be fair, restaurants here in la rochelle open at 19h00 for dinner and i had been walking up and down the street since 18h30 before i short listed "la cote de boeuf" and "l'entracte". in fact, on recommendation from a friend, i was due to have dinner at "chez andre" tonight, but i decided the other two not only had a better atmosphere but the menu on presentation looked more in line with what i had in mind.

in the end, i chose "l'entracte" for 2 reasons: it had huitres in its appetizer list and it is michelin recommended. mind you "la cote de boeuf" is gault millaut recommended, so the choice was still difficult to make.

i am now learning to make the difference between michelin and gault millaud in the same way i have made the difference between gambero rosso and veronelli in italy.

i still have not made up my mind and so i will tell you about that much later.

the service was friendly although nervous. i am not sure why since i was the only customer for most of my visit. In any case, it was efficient and knowledgeable, which is always something i like.

i had les huitres, for appetizer (but of course) and the "noix de coquilles st-jacques" for the main.

oysters are oysters so i will skip that description. the coquille were served with a risotto of tomatoes and parsley and "jus de viande". although the risotto arrived yellow as mustard, it was surprisingly tasty. in fact a bit of coquilles together with risotto and jus was absolutely divine on my palate. the coquilles being in season were soft, tender, and slightly sweet tasting. first time i have this kind of taste and texture, lovely.

i ended my meal with cheese "de brebis", goat cheeze in english which does not sound nearly as nice...

a delightful meal. highly recommended if you visit la rochelle.

you can click on each photos for a larger version:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

l'entracte, 35 rue st-jean-du-perot, la rochelle, tel. +33 546 52 26 69

Published by jc on January 12, 2008

domaines astruc - blanquette de limoux - tasting notes

during my WSET studies for the unit on sparkling wines, i look and look for a blanquette de limoux so that i can taste it and of course practice for the exam. 

i did not succeed to find one and so i was very happy when i attended a wine dinner hosted by domaine paul mas and was able to order a ew bottles to be delivered the next day to my office. 

and so, at a dinner last night, i served it to my guests and they actually liked it better than champagne.  in fact, i always thought that champagne is an acquired taste or a status symbol.  or both...  the blanquette is pleasant, delicious and accessible while being complex enough to make it a very good appetizer wine.

here is our tasting notes (brief version):

Pale golden color with fine persitent bubbles. Medium intensity, brioche, green apple, citrus, fresh mineral aromas.  dry, refreshing acidity, soft creamy mousse.  medium intensity flavour, lightly and mouthwatering citrus, less brioche on palate, yet strong hints of autolitic complexity.   delicious lenght and finish.  pleasant and delicious.

bought in hong kong hkd 158 (usd 20)


Published by jc on December 9, 2007

les domaines paul mas wine dinner at the fcc - 14 november 07


PAUL MAS CHA CHA CHA CHARDONAY 2006
nose of butter, vanilla, pineapple and lemon.  medium acidity, body and alcohol, medium - intensity flavours of lemon, butter, and vanilla. Exotic fruits, smoke and flint.

DOMAINE PAUL MAS QUE SERA SIRAH SYRAH 2006
nose of young dark forest fruit, creamy, slighty spicy/peppery, vanilla, and slightly savoury
medium- acidity, low tannin (slightly harsh), medium body and alcohol.   medium intensity flavours as nose, with medium - lenght and peppery finish.

PAUL MAS SAVIGNAC PROPRIETOR RESERVE 2001
nose of stewed black fruits, vanilla and smoke.  hints of rasberries and soft red fruits.
Low acidity, low tannin, medium body & alcohol.  medium intensity flavour of soft red fruits, soft on the palate w/ a medium - finish.  simple and easy to drink.

DOMAINE ASTUC MUSCAT ST-JEAN MINERVOIS 2005

Published by jc on November 14, 2007

1961 & other 1960s bordeaux great growths - tasting notes

at a tasting saturday, i had an amazing experience.  in fact the whole tasting was a kind of nirvana of the wine world.

i was carefully warned before arriving that it was possible that 6 out of the 8 we were about to taste would be in poor condition and there was a possibility that none of those 6 would be drinkable.  it must be said that 6 of those were bordeaux made in the 60's. 

 in order of tasting we were served:

- chateau de pez 1995 - which was a kind of ''insurance policy''

- chateau latour 1967

- chateau latour 1966

- chateau beychevelle 1961

- chateau leoville-barton 1962

- chateau leoville-barton 1961

- chateau ducru-beaucaillou 1961

- moss wood margaret rive cabernet sauvignon 1994 - a ''plan b'', albeit an delicious one

to the utter amazement (or relief...) of our tutor, all wines were in perfect condition!  at last, after 3 years of studying about wine and being told that wines of such and such quality must acheive such and such greatness after ageing, i had the chance to experience for myself what the ''fuss is all about''.  and an experience it was! 

alas, like a drug addict on crack, i am now hooked!!  how can i ever go back to drink this infect ''piquette'' they serve us in most restaurant in hong kong???

here, i try to describe the chateau ducru-beaucaillou 1961 - described as the ''quintessential bordeaux'' and one of the best example of an aged bordeaux

appearance:

clear bright (yes, even after 46 years...) of pale yet rich intentsity tawny color at the core and a wide brown rim breaking and mahogany at the edge.  with several luscious legs at slipering along the bowl of my glass...

nose:

clean (alleluia!), of medium (+) intensity, fully developped with savoury and complex aromas of tobbaco, dark chocolate, spices, tar, cedarwood..

palate:

dry with low acidity, low tannins and medium (-) alcohol level.  a medium (-) body with medium (+) intensity of delicious flavours of humid tobacco with dark cholate laced with black pepper, a touch of cardamon and cedar, a slight savoury edge.  a long, delicious, and savoury finish.  silky and soft on the palate.

amazing quality, balance, and complexity.  a fantastic experience early in my wine career...

Published by jc on September 17, 2007