brunello 2004 horizontal with the hong kong wine society

a very interesting tasting last night with the hong kong wine society.

when i selected the wines in montalcino last christmas, i frankly did not expect that this tasting would turn out to be so fascinating...in fact, labels were carefully selected so that we can try to identify modern vs traditional styles and southerly vs northerly established vineyards.

there was the common brunello tread (fleshy with blackberry, black cherry, black raspberry, chocolate, leather, violets, and a touch of spices) throughout but the wines were stylistically so different from each other that it was almost like tasting different vintages and even region...

then there was the ranking by the overall group which in itself was so interesting, completely different than wine spectator and certainly very much against the pricing order of these wines.

here is how the wines ranked after tasting them blind (in bracket, the wine spectator score and price i paid in montalcino on 27 december 2009):

1st = Talenti (WS 92 – Euro 27-)

2nd = Casanova Di Neri Tenuta Nuova (WS 96 – Euro 46-)

3rd = Lisini (WS 94 – Euro 31-)

4th = San Polino Helichrysum (WS N/A – Euro 48-)

5th = Poggio Il Castellare (WS 96 – Euro 28-)

6th = Banfi Poggio Alle Mura (WS 94 – Euro 37-)

7th = Fuligni (WS 84 – Euro 64-)

8th = Sesti (WS 88 – Euro 34-)

9th = Poggio Di Sotto (WS 91 – Euro 75-)

10th = Podere San Giacomo (WS 95 – Euro 39-)

 

for dinner, we had a biondi santi annata 2004 which showed very well after having spent 2 1/2 hours in the decanter and we also had a disappointing il poggione 2004 which also spent 2 hours in the decanter but was slightly out of balance (hot) and somewhat tired already.

for more information, the brunello consortium website is helpful but for a quick outline about montalcino, you can download my pdf notes about the terroir here and more specific information about each wines here.

Published by jc on July 23, 2010

this week tasting - 3 wines from piedmont vs 3 syrah/shiraz from france and australia

this week, we have tasted a flight of piedmontese wines against a flight of syrah and shiraz so that we can make the comparisons and highlight the differences.

this post is short as i just returned from italy and have much to catch up.  for your more information on piedmont and syrah/shiraz, you can click here to get my notes on:

- piedmont and its terroir;

- syrah/shiraz grape characteristics.

as usual, our notes are made using the wset level (diploma) systematic approach to tasting and you can download the full notes by clicking on the link of each wine names.  we only publish our conclusion.

marks & spencer chateau de surville costière de nîmes 2006:

acceptable entry-level wine – good complexity, concentration and depth of fruits on the nose, however surprisingly disappearing on the palate.  slightly higher acidity in relation to tannins and fruit on the palate.  short length.

bridgewater mill shiraz 2005:

good mid-level wine.  good balance acidity, tannins, and alcohol well supported by good quality fruits on the palate.  complex both on nose and palate, however elegant, and fine.  very smooth.  well made from quality fruits and techniques.

les launes crozes-hermitage 2006 – delas frères:

good mid-level wine – good intensity, complexity and balance of aromas and flavours between nose and palate.  good balance of acidity, tannins, with alcohol and fruit.  well made from good raw materials and wine making techniques.  elegant & refined.  firm tannins & quality fruit shows promise for ageing.

ceretto zonchera barolo 2004:

good mid-level wine – good complexity, and balance on and between nose and palate.  acidity and firm tannin well supported by alcohol and fruit.  good length and pleasant after-taste. careful if technical winemaking.

ceretto asij barbaresco 2005:

good mid-level wine – good complexity on nose and palate.  light concentration of fruit.  good balance of nose and palate as well, good fruit and high alcohol supports well the chewy tannins and high acidity.  good and pleasant length of after-taste.

ceretto piana barbera d'alba 2006:

good mid-level wine.  slightly more intense on palate than on nose showing good complexity and balanced alcohol and acidity & tannins.  juicy and somewhat long on the after-taste.  characteristic  & pleasant barbera, well made from quality fruits to drink now. 

all wines were bought at watson's wine cellars except the costière de nîmes which was bought at marks & spencer in central.

Published by jc on April 13, 2009

tasting merlot

this week, we tasted merlot. a grape that became super fashionable in the usa after the news program "60 minutes" had a feature on the "french paradox" and how red wine is possibly responsible for the low incidence of heart disease in france even though the french eat a lot of cheeze (and love it!).

the reason merlot is so popular in fact is probably because it gives a wine that is generally plump, soft, plummy, supple, and luscious.  thanks to its large berries and thin skin, it is much more approachable and easier to drink young than it's regular blending partner cabernet sauvignon.  for a wine grower, it's easy to grow, ripens quickly, and it gives a generous crop.

unfortunately, that can be sources of problems.  on its own, it can be very bland especially if it comes from too generous a crop in the vineyards.  picked too quickly and in a cold vintage, it can taste minty and often unpleasantly herbaceaous and green.  if the vintage and climate are too hot, it might easily be too alcoholic and jammy.

merlot finds its home in the st-émilion & pomerol districts of bordeaux from where the wines will generally be rich, gentle, velvety, and spicy. even though many people think that cabernet sauvignon is king in bordeaux, merlot is the most planted red grape and it provides flesh, softeness, and richness to blends.

merlot is also planted all over the world, especially in chile where it was once mixed up with another similar grape called "carmenere".  you can also find excellent examples from california, the north of italy, and from new zealand's hawkes bay region.

young, you can expect red & black fruits, figs, prunes, spices, and liquorice.  sometimes, it will be described as tasting of "christmas cake".  aged and from a good quality raw material, it will develop a deep bouquet with notes of truffles, coffee, and liquorice.

our notes this week (pdf), all tasted blind (based on the wset level 4 systematic approach):

marks & spencer friuli grave merlot 2006 - friuli-venezia-giulia, italy

acceptable entry level wine.  some complexity and an average length.  lacks concentration and depth.  tannin slightly off-balance.  good wine making from average quality raw materials.

cono sur carmenere 2007 - colchagua valley, chile

not a merlot, but often mistaken as merlot.  this was our weekly trick wine to identify which was the odd one out!

acceptable entry level wine.  hints of unripe fruits at first.  low tannins.  some fruit complexity but a short length.  the wine demonstrate that it was picked slightly under ripe possibly from a difficult vintage.

château lapelletrie 2005 st-émilion grand cru - st-émilion, bordeaux

acceptable premium wine – an elegant and refined nose changed into a very disappointing palate with a bitter and unpleasant finish.  although alcohol, tannin, and acidity in balance, the bitterness is empowering the fruit and the elegance perceived on the nose.  depth, finesse, and complexity of the nose shows it was made from excellent raw materials.

casa lapostolle merlot 2006 - rapel valley, chile

very good mid-level wine.  excellent balance and smooth, complex palate and nose.  long length and elegance showing excellent raw materials and wine making.  pleasant floral, savoury, and length of the after-taste.

trefethen merlot 2004 –napa valley, california

very good mid-level wine – excellent balance, complexity, and length.  savoury, from excellent ripe fruit and wine making.  high quality and excellent structure to age well and develop excellent characteristics.

 

all wines were bought at watson's wine cellars and marks & spencer in hong kong.

Published by jc on March 30, 2009

another fantastic wine tasting with the hong kong wine society

hong kong right now is incredibly dynamic in terms of wine events and formal tastings and i beleive it is probably the best place to be for a wide-eyed neophyte like me who is super eager to learn and discover as much as i can about wine.

and so, on last friday, i was extremely fortunate to be part of another incredible tasting hosted by nigel bruce and the wine society of hong kong.  the theme was "vertical of mature barolo and barbaresco - 1952 - 1990) and it included:

Barolo Borgogno Riserva 1952

- mine and the group's favourite of the tasting = still in very good shape, incredibly complex, silky, and long on the finish savoury notes, rancio, raisins, tobacco box, tar - incredible

 

Barolo Borgogno Riserva 1958

Barolo Giuseppi Mascarello 1958

Barolo Bartolo Mascarello 1961

Barolo Borgogno Riserva 1964

Barolo Philippo Sobrero 1971

Barbaresco Angelo Gaja 1982

Barbaresco Monstefano Prunotto 1982

Barolo Brunate Bricco Rocche Ceretto 1985

Barbaresco San Stefano Bruno Giacosa 1985

Barolo Cerequio Roberto Voerzio 1990

Published by jc on February 16, 2009

mustilli vs mastroberardino

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the comparison will not be completely accurate here as we are tasting a falanghina and a greco di tufo, two grapes that are something of a speciality down in italy's campania (the region around naples).

falanghina is a very ancient grape that was probably brought by the greeks in the olden days.  some say its name come from the latin "phalanga", the word to describe wooden poles the greeks used for wine training.  it almost came to extinction in campania until leonardo mustilli decided in 1979 to seriously consider how to make fine wines out of the grape.  since, several producers have caught on and planted the grapes in various terroir around the region producing some very interesting and rewarding whites.

the white grape greco was brought by the greeks to the region some 2,500 years ago and has found its home in the tufo soils of campania, especially around the small town of tufo near avellino where it earned the appellation greco di tufo docg.  it is the mastroberardino family that is generally recognized for bringing back the grape to life and make a push for it to become a fine wine.

as usual, i follow the wset systematic approach to tasting for my notes:

 

mustilli - vigna segreta 2005 - falanghina - sant'agata dei goti doc

a clear bright white wine with a deep intensity lemon yellow color at the core and a bright watery rim and some viscosity at the bowl.

a clean nose of medium + intensity and developing aromas of apricot, white flowers, touch of citrus & lime, dried almonds, cream and vanilla.

dry on the palate, with a crisp and refreshing acidity but gentle and pleasant and in balance with its medium + alcohol and body.  a medium intensity flavours of fresh white flowers, younger apricot and lime than its nose, complex with hints of spices, cloves, and cinnamon.  oily, silky on the palate with a long pleasant length of the after-taste.

a good balance, complex and intense.  long. savoury.  a good and rewarding example of a very well made falanghina.

 

mastroberardino - novaserra greco di tufo docg 2006

a clear bright white wine with medium intensity lemon flesh with hints of green hues and a clear water rim.  some viscosity at the bowl

a clean nose of medium intensity and fresh and zesty aromas of peach, orange blossom, apple, lemon, almonds.

dry on the palate with a firm, zesty acidity and medium alcohol and body.  a medium intensity of flavours recalling its nose, but more zesty, crisp, and minerally.  light, almost airy, easy on the palate and fresh.  a medium length with a spicy, if not bitter, and pleasant after-taste.

a good balance.  simple, fresh, rewarding, and easy to drink.  a good wine but slightly simpler and less rewarding than the mustilli falanghina.

 

 

Published by jc on October 11, 2008

pertinace 2005 – barbera d’alba

right now in hong kong, I am not at all happy with wine prices.  after-all, the import tax went down 80% in the last 18 months and yet, regular consumers like myself yet have to see price reductions on most wines on offer. 

 

and so, these days I make it a point to buy the cheapest wines available on lists in every restaurants we visit as well as wine shops we buy our wines.

 

ironically (or cynically?) we are told that the reason we do not see price differences on wine lists is that the selection was replaced with better quality at the same price.  really?  most restaurants I visit have not changed the list much.  those that did, from experience, seem to have a very strange idea of quality – perhaps they should attend a wset class…

 

today I was a bit sceptical when I uncorked a barbera d’alba from pertinace (vintage 2005).  firstly, we bought the wine on sale at hkd 148 at city super and secondly, on removing the foil, the cork was plastic which always gives me shivers.

 

what a surprised when maria pleasantly exclaimed that the wine was “verrry gooood”.

 

a nice, bright ruby/purple color with young black cherries and spicy aromas.  mouth watering acidity, smooth, ripe tannins and medium intensity of juicy prunes, sour cherries and christmas spices on the palates.  complex, quickly evolving glass after glass into a very intriguing perfum of violets, mint and cherries which explodes on the palate and last for a good finish.  very good quality for the price.  will definitely buy again for nice and easy drinking during the week.

 

pertinace 2005 – barbera d’alba – price hkd 148 at city super in causeway bay

 

Published by jc on August 24, 2008

lacrima di morro d'alba - selection rubbjano 2005

ever since i have started my wset diploma (touch wood i will pass my last exam), people i meet have been asking me what is my favourite wine.  normally, i duck the question because i consider myself a student and therefore in a never ending quest for knowledge (...) kidding aside, i find this a difficult question to answer because for me, wine depends so much of who i am drinking it with and what food we are also enjoying at the time.

but last night, with maria and sophie, i had my 3rd bottle of "lacrima di morro d'alba selection rubbjano 2005" by luigi guisti and i can now definitely say that it is my favourite wine - by far.

lacrima is actually a grape that is mainly grown in morro d'alba, a commune in the marches in italy.  it has actually nothing to do with alba in piedmonte.  an autochtonous variety,  it was almost extinct but was revived in the last few years by dedicated growers who are more artisan than businessmen - people of passion rather than money (just my type of people!).

thanks to the giusti patriarch who kept his old vines on his best plots for more than the last 50 years, the selection rubbjano can be crafted and the result is like "une potion ensorcelante", a magic potion.

light ruby color with dark purple hues, it has an incredible perfumed of rose petals, violets, peppermint, and vanilla.  a touch of cinnamon, and a kind of warmth on the aroma not unlike a beautifully warm summer night in the country side.  the palate is soft, silky, round, and rewarding.  the taste much like the nose but more pronounced and complex.  with a medium length of the after-taste, it leaves a nice and savoury lingering taste. 

out of 2,000+ wines that i have tasted in the last 2-3 years, this is the one that i could recognise blindfolded among all of them... je suis ensorcelé...

unfortunately, that wine is very very difficult to find as the giusti family only produce 3,000 bottles per year.  the bottle we drank last night was 1 of 12 that i was super lucky to receive as a christmas present from my super sweet wife (with the help of franco and mama italiana, of course...).

 

Published by jc on August 13, 2008

barbi brunello di montalcino riserva 1999

this year, i was blessed with a fantastic 40th birthday party.  in hong kong, i had my dearest friends with me for a fantastic dinner at zest and was offered a membership at the crown cellars and franco was super generous in that he offered me a wonderful bottle of barbi brunello di montalcino riserva 1999.

last week, we had a special family dinner in hong kong and i thought the occasion appropriate.  and so, after decanting for 1 hour, the wine was absolutely fantastic:

deep, intense and complex aromas and flavours of dark chocolate, leather, tobbaco box, spices of the orient, herbs like thym & rosemary. a silky, soft like velvet mouthfeel and a super long lenght.  an excellent wine.  perfect to match our beef served with gorgonzola.

fattoria barbi is among montalcino's oldest brunello producing estate having made wine since 1790.  it is certainly a place we will visit on our next trip to tuscany.

Published by jc on May 8, 2008

corte sant' alda - valpolicella wine region, italy

talking about passionate people...  on our last trip to italy, we visited corte sant'alda in the valpolicella wine region just 1/2 hour north of verona.  what a passionate woman that is marinella camerani who is firmly in charge of this family estate.

although established in the early 80s, they have been growing organically for the past 4 years and bio-dynamically for the last 3.  they absolutely believe in the work of nature so much so that marinella is now considering using horses instead of machines in the vineyards.  their philosophy is simply to produce the best possible wines which will represent their "terroir" and purest typicity of each styles on wines.

when we visited, we tasted their whole range except, to my infinite sadness, their recioto which i had had at another occasion.

the "amarone della valpolicella 2004" was absolutely stunning so was their "valpolicella superior "mithas" 2004"which is made only when the best possible conditions exists in one of their very best vineyards, which by the way are all individually named and personally known and cherished by marinella as if they are her children.

unfortunately, it is not available in hong kong but it is possible to order by internet or, if you go to venice, stop by one of their best wine shop called vino e vini in castello (tel. 041 521 0184) where i bought my 1st bottle a few years ago.

here is the note on the "amarone della valpolicella corte sant alda 2004":

clear & bright deep ruby color with much viscosity (legs) on the bowl.  intense, concentrated prunes, dark cherries, blueberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, vanilla, liquorice.  with a medium (+) tannin, a smooth texture and long lenght of after-taste.  an excellent and super tasty wine to drink now with a nice hearty meal, possibly rosted lamb served on rosemary jus and roasted potatoes.  to keep for 10-15 years and improve most of this time.

needless to say, we bought a few cases to bring back and age in our cellar back in franco's house.

Published by jc on May 3, 2008

an excellent tasting with pierre legrandois

sommelier at the mandarin oriental in hong kong, pierre has tutored for us another excellent tasting last week in the super exclusive krug room hidden deep into the kitchens of the hotel.

the theme this time: "hidden gems of the old and new world". an excellent selection of well chosen wines that were as surprising as to where they came from as to how they tasted. of course, all are available at various restaurants and bars of the hotel.

first off, we had a super refreshing assyrtiko paris sigalas 2006 from surprising santorini. made from organically grown assyrtiko grapes: pale straw, delightful peach, pear, and minerals. slightly salty and super pleasant on the palate: light, succulent, and refreshing. would have been so perfect with shellfish, watching the sun set on my beloved mediteranean sea....

 

then, we had château bela riesling - egon muller 2004. from slovakia, a perfect representation of a riesling: medium intensity lime flesh color, floral, citrusy minerality. apple & grapefruit. slightly spicy. lovely acidity, smooth mouth feel, long length. lovely with lobster...

next on the list and to my absolute delight, maria's all time favourite: donna fugata's vigna di gabri contessa entellina 2006. i was delighted to hear that pierre carries it by the glass at "pierre", the upstairs restaurant by pierre gagnaire. produced in sicily, the wine is an excellent expression of ansonica grapes (also known as inzolia), typical of sicily. a lovely pale lemon flesh color, fresh, medium + intensity of apples, white flowers, mineral and hints of salt. a special taste, surprising on the palate. nice long finish. would be beautiful with a branzino gently steamed and served with lemon and a branch of thym...

next was alentejo esporao reserva 2005. from portugal, it is made with antao vaz, roupeiro, and arinto grapes. lovely. medium strae color. Intense aromas of vanilla, smoke, citrusy cream, with hints of honey. refreshing, lovely finish. reminiscent of a well made california chardonnay. to match, i can think of that nice roast chicken they serve at cococabana, you know the one with a lovely lemony paella and lots of thyme and lemon...

for the first red, we had carmenero ca del bosco 2001. a carmenere from lombardy in the north of italy. from a top quality producer, ca' del bosco, famous for his franciacorta sparkling wine. medium ruby, intense red fruits, plums with mint, vanilla, and spices. refreshing with a medium length on the finish.

next was a cabernet sauvignon superior barkan winery 2003. surprising red from israel. typical of a cabernet sauvignon. intense aromas & flavours. powerful ripe tannins. concentrated with a medium long finish. drink at a nice bbq and share with friends.

from spain this time, bierzo corullon descendes de j. Palacios 2005. from a region more famous for white wines vinho verde. made from mencia grapes, it had a rich ruby color with intense aromas of dark berry fruits, spicy, animal. long length. have it with roasted lamb for great pairing.

the last red was cotes de provence cuvee columelle domaine richeaume 2003. made with syrah & merlot it was dark ruby color leaving a thick brown coating on the bowl of the glass. concentrated, intense and powerful. spicy, minty, round black berry fruits, dark cherries, liquorice, pepper, plums. a lot went on at each sniff and sip. long complex length. beautiful, requests a steak, a roast. my mouth is watering just thinking about it.

to finish the tasting, pierre served us a beautiful ben rye 2004 from donna fugata. intense, complex. like drinking liquid marmalade, orange peal, apricot, spices: cinnamon, cloves, honey, grapefruits. fantastic. in fact i liked it so much that i am offering this wine to my guests at my 40th birthday dinner this week-end. don't worry franco, we will have a bottle to share together the next time you come.

a great tasting. excellent wine selection. i am impressed with pierre's wine picks. always excellent representations. wines with personality and character yes, but also with finesse and elegance in the sense that they are confident in what they are simply by being what they are, not by being show off about it. difficult to explain, i am sure you came across that type of people before and automatically wanted to be friends with them. just like these wines...

Published by jc on March 7, 2008

poggio antico altero 1997 - tasting notes

this wine has a special emotion attached to it.  we bought it on teh next day after our wedding in tuscany.  we were marrid in cortona and arranged for a whole week of touring around chianti and montalcino for our guests.

one stop on our itinerary was a lunch at the fanstastcic restaurant of poggio antico.  we had a chance to visit their cantina and it is there that we bought this wine.  too bad, we could only bring 1 bottle.

our tasting notes are based on wset systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, medium ruby core with a amber rim and a great many luscious and complex legs at the bowl

nose:

clean, developping, medium (+) intensity aromas of tar, leather, savoury spices, forest undergrowth, with hints of dark fruits, prune, figs

palate:

dry, low acidity, medium (-) tannins (round & soft), medium body, medium alcohol all in very good balance, medium (+) intensity flavours as nose, a little salty, savoury.  a medium and delicious lenght.

conclusion:

a good wine, complex with layers and layers of aromas and flavours.  ready to drink, however, hints of fruits and tannins makes us beleive it can age for some time and further develop delicious terciary flavours.

bought at the winery for eur 50

Published by jc on December 9, 2007

a great wine by glass at isola in hong kong

barbera d'alba la luna 2003 luca abrate - glass (hkd 98)

on the nose, perfumed, nice juicy red fruits with hints of vanilla and pepper.

in mouth, refreshing, smooth, juicy red fruits and vanilla. succulent finish and medium lenght.

nice and tasty, enough to order a second glass...

Published by jc on December 4, 2007

vinitaly china - shanghai december 2007

unfortunately for the exhibitors, the 9th edition of vinitaly china in shanghai was not very well attended.  a pity because some fine producers were exhibiting and i think this was really from a lack of imagination from the organisers and from not having spent enough energy promoting the event in hong kong where no one i know in the wine trade kew about the event.

it was fortunate for me however, because producers had time for me and were quite relaxed to talk about their wines and what they do back in italy.

i planned to attend the fair 2 days but ended up completing what i had come to do in only one.  i spent most of my time in the ''pavillions'' of abruzzo and sardegna and was certainly glad to meet those producers i did.

first of, was ''santa maria la palma'' from sardegna which makes our ''vino della casa'' red and white which are simple, easy to drink, easy to match with any food: the red, cannonau ''le bombarde'' which i reviewed previously in those pages and the white, vermentiono ''aragosta'' which is fragrant, peachy, stony, refreshing, and delicious.

 

then, we had wines at ''argiolas'' which were certainly of great quality and very well made, in particular the ''turriga 2003 - isola dei nuraghi'' which had a nice ruby core with purple hints at rim; aromatics of a developping wine with stewed red fruits, pepermint, hints of chocolate and coffee; refreshing acidity on the palate with a medium tannin, flavours as nose with stronger herbceous-pepperminty characters and long finish.  a good wine that will certainly age well for several years.

their vermentino ''is argiolas 2006'' was of a luscious pale gold color with fresh & youthfull aromatics of pear, pinapple, exotic fruits and hints of minerals & stones; a refreshing acidity, medium body, as delicious on the palate as it was aromatic on the nose with slightly bitter/nutty finish reminiscent of almonds.  complex, pleasant, delicious.

Published by jc on December 2, 2007

solaia 2002 (annata diversa) - antinori - tasting notes

it is always a treat when franco visits us from italy.  first because his suitcase is always full of food and wine, but best because we get to open some pretty great bottles to taste the 3 of us together.

tonight, we review the solaia 2002 annata diversa named in such a way because the weather was especially good the cabernet grapes in that year and antinori did not use sangiovese as they do usually.  the is only made with cabernet sauvignon & cabernet franc.

our tasting notes are based on the wset systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, deep ruby at the core and breaking at the rim, with a great many thin legs

nose:

cleam, developping with medium intensity aromas of stewed black forest fruits, pepper & savoury spices, vanilla, with hints of ageing characteristics: leather, prune.  mouthwatering and complex with layers and layers of aromas coing out at each passage

palate:

dry, medium (-) acidity, medium (-) tannins (slightly harsh), medium (+) alcohol and medium body.  medium intensity flavours as nose, savoury, a little harsh in mouth.  complex finish with medium lenght.

conclusion:

good.  not exceptional.  acceptable complexity, a good balance, young enough with enough tannins and acidity to offer potential for ageing.  ready to drink but can age another 2-3 years.

 

Published by jc on December 2, 2007

san felice wine dinner at cipriani - 19 november 2007

As strange as it might appear, I love to go for dinner by myself.  not that i do not like good company mind you. 

it is just that my imagination goes absolutely wild when i dine alone.   it gives me a buzz to watch the service, listen to bits and pieces of conversations going on around me.  but most of all, i love observing people.  how they behave in groups, how they behave towards me, alone at my table.  it is the body language that tells me so much, or rather trigger my imagination.  i love to invent stories about one or the other, to imagine what they think, where they could be coming from, where they could be going next .  sometimes, this makes me sad, especially when i see someone who appears not to be assuming himself to the extent that i feel he should.  other times it makes me laugh at how arrogant or pompous others behave towards their guests or kin.  all the while, i love to watch and to make up stories. 

perhaps it helps me learn about myself?  as they say, what we see in other people is actually what we see in ourselves...

in any case... we are here for the wine and so:

VERMENTINO DI MAREMMA 2006 - matched to tuna tartare
pale golden color, aromatic with floral aromas; nice refreshing acidity, with simple flavour as it should for its kind.  fresh pears, citrus, lime skin, slightly peppery.  medium lenght.  pleasant as appetizer.

CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA IL GRIGIO 2004 - matched to risotto with radicchio di treviso
pale ruby, nice aromatic of dark forest fruits, spices, forest underwood; low acidity, medium body & alcohol, soft tannins, flavours as nose, smoky, medium lenght, fruity finish.  pleasant.

VIGORELLO 2001 - matched with rack of lamb with vintage balsamic sauce
medium ruby with purple tints.  aromatic of dark forest fruits: blackberries, black currents, blueberries and vanilla, low acidity, medium + tannin (slightly harsh), medium + body, palate as nose with hints of chocolate and tobacco box.  medium lenght with a fruity finish.  can drink now and can age.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO CAMPOGIOVANNI 2001 - matched with rack of lamb with vintage balsamic sauce
deep ruby, aromatic of dark forest fruits, slightly herbaceous, with hints of minth and tobacco, vanilla; medium acidity,  medium ripe tannins, flavours as nose but fruitier and with a complex, spicy finish.   medium lenght.  a good wine, pleasant and complex.

VIN SANTO DEL CHIANI CLASSICO 2002 - matched with mango cheese cake with zabaione sauce
deep gold color, aromatic of creme caramel, slightly burnt sugar, raisins, dark honey; sweet, low acidity, full body, flavours as nose, slightly spicy: cinnamon, vanilla, long  and complex finish.  good.

GRAPPA DI BRUNELLO CAMPOGIOVANNI - matched with tea or coffee

 

Published by jc on November 20, 2007

a great wine at isola: vermentino

yes!  i found a great wine on isola's list, finally.  vermentino di gallura 2006, giogantinu from sardegna.  price at hkd 450, it was great value for money:

nice pale lime-flesh color, aromatic, pear, peach, lime and a stony, mineral note typical vermentino aroma that reminds one of fresh mediterrenean seafood.  a refreshing acidity, complex palate as nose and long lenght.  peppery, fresh, and tasty.

i will buy it again.

Published by jc on November 18, 2007

wine tasting with pierre legrandois

i have a very nice wine tasting at the mandarin oriental last saturday with pierre legrandois, the cheif somelier for the hotel in hong kong.

firstly, the setting was certainly impressive being in the super exclusive krug room located right in the middle of the hotel kitchen with a stunning marbe table and an entire wall being a floor to ceiling window overlooking the action on the kitchen.

pierre legrandois is a very ''sympathique'' somelier who is passionate about wine and certainly very knowledgeable.  his approach was entirely casual and accessible: he was there to demistify wine and to give us a tour of the most typical wines that we may encounter in all good quality restaurants.

for me, being at diploma level of WSET, the information he provided was mostly a review of what i had heard before in other tastings and classes.  however, it was delivered with insight and enthusiasm and that made me feel very comfortable with what i have learned until now.

his selection was classic and very interesting in that the wines we tasted were very good representations of their kind and the quality was outstanding. 

we tasted:

white:

2003 riesling cuvee f. emile trimbach, alsace france

2004 chassagne montrachet fontaine gagnard, burgundy france

2006 sauvignon blanc leewin estate, margaret river australia

red:

2004 gevrey chambertin vielles vignes f. magnien, burgundy france

2001 brunello di montalcino siro pacenti, tuscany italy (my favourite, described below)

2003 cabernet suavignon voyager estate, margaret river australia

 

2001 brunello di montalcino siro pacenti - tasting notes:

our tasting notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting (diploma level 4 - light wines):

appearance:

clear bright, deep ruby red at the core with tints of purple.  with a paler rim and plenty of long, and luscious legs at the bowl.

nose:

clean, developping, medium (+) aromas of dark forest fruits - blackcurrents, blackberries, blueberries, gamey (animal/meaty), spciy, loquorice, vanilla.  complex and at the same time elegant.

flavours:

dry, medium acidity, medium (-) tannins (ripe and round), full body, medium (+) alcohol.  medium intensity as nose. characters of tobbaco box, raisins and toffee. complex, savoury, and long lasting. pleasant and soft on the palate.

conclusion:

complex, long lasting and savoury.  each nose and sip reveals layers and layers of aromas and flavours.  very well balanced and pleasant on palate.

a good wine to drink now but can be kept for years.

 

Published by jc on November 18, 2007

Lodola Nuova 2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Ruffino - Tasting Notes

our notes are based on the WSET Systematic Approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, medium intensity ruby red at core, breaking at rim, with some legs

nose:

clean, youthful, medium (-) intensity aromas of fruits of the forest, black cherries, some vanilla

palate:

dry with a medium (+) acidity, low tannin, medium (+) alcohol level, medium (-) body, medium (-) intensity flavours as nose.  short lenght.  feels sharp and thin on the palate, somewhat unbalanced.  calls for food, will food compensate?

conclusion:

acceptable, barely.  although of an acceptable quality, a disappointment.  feels thin and sharp, not much complexity and a disapointing finish. drink now, if at all.

bought in hong kong at olivers for hkd 295 (usd 37) on 03 november 07

Published by jc on November 3, 2007

endrizzi masetto nero 2004 - tasting notes

our notes are based on WSET Systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright with medium intensity ruby at core with purple reflections, breaking at rim and many legs on the sides of the bowl

nose:

clean, youthful, medium (+) intensity & complex aromas of dark forest fruits, hints of leather & tobbaco, smokee, savoury and mouthwatering

palate:

dry, medium (-) acidity, medium (-) & ripe tannin, medium (+) alcohol level, medium body, medium (+) intensity & complexity of flavours: as nose, with hints of fresh red fruits. silky on the palate with a medium lenght and peppery finish

conclusion:

a good wine, complexity, lenght, texture that makes it pleasant to drink on its own or with food.  each sip is lingering long enough leaving a nice mouthering finish to invite the drinker for more.

drink now.

bought in hong kong at il bel paese, 85 caine road, mid-levels, hkd 330 (usd 42-)

Published by jc on October 14, 2007

villa bucci riserva 2003 verdicchio dei castelli di jesi - tasting notes

our tasting notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright with medium intensity pale straw yellow at the core and watery rim, with plenty of legs at the bowl

nose:

clean, youthful, with medium intensity aromas of haselnut, white pepper, vanilla, smoke, and citrus

palate:

dry, low acidity, high alcohol level, medium body, medium intensity flavours as nose with hints of honey and apple, with medium lenght and nice peppery finish

conclusion:

a wine that is definitely better served fresh rather than cold/cool as it showed much more complexity on the nose and palate as it was becoming warmer.  a nice fresh wine to drink, well balanced and a very good representation of its kind.

 

Published by jc on October 3, 2007

santa maria la palma - le bombarde cannonau di sardegna 2005 - tasting notes

our notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, pale intensity purple-ruby color and pale at the rim with several thin legs at the bowl

nose:

clean, of medium (-) intensity, youthful with aromas of blackcurrants, black cherries and pepper.

palate:

dry, with medium (-) acidity & low tannin.  medium level of alcohol and medium body.  medium intensity falvours as palate: black current, pepper, rasberries.  a medium (-) finish and simple level of complexity. balanced and a pleasant mouthfeel.

conclusion:

an acceptable wine.  pleasant on the palate.  offers slight complexity and well balanced.  suitable for dinner in good company.  not a wine to meditate upon but can be enjoyed now - not to keep.

 

Published by jc on September 18, 2007

aldegheri - amarone della valpolicella classico 1997 - tasting notes

our notes are based on the WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright, opaque purple ruby color with much lucsciou legs on the bowl of the glass

nose:

clean with a medium (+) intensity.  developping with fruity characteristics of stewed dark forest fruits - blackberries, blueberries and dark cherries.  with hints of black pepper and leather.

palate:

dry with a fairly balanced medium (-) acidity & medium tannin (round) with a high alcohol level and full body.  medium (+) intensity flavours much as nose but with more pronounced pepper and leather on the finish.  a medium and silky finish.

conclusion:

a good quality wine.  with a good level of acidity, tannin and fruit still present, a fairly complex wine, it is ready to drink but can age for further terciary complexity development. 

Published by jc on September 17, 2007

piedmont - wine II

on our last day, we had a bit of a threat when visited the distilleria del barbaresco very early in the morning.  no we did not taste grappa, but Franco at the distelleria was good enough to show us inside out and explain with much brillance the whole process of distillation.  unfortunately, there was not vinaccia to distill on that morning but we nonetheless were able to see everything.

then, the super threat was when we visited GAJA.

and what a tour the kind and friendly Sonia Franco gave us.  as we walked through the cellars among the barrique she talked about the Gaja family and its evolution through the generations, their ideals, and passion for quality, tradition, and their desire to push the limits to reach ever higher levels of quality.

i was impressed how they are uncompromising and completely and totally invested in what they do.  the cellars are beautiful, going from one building and extending under the street of barbaresco to reach the castle on the other side.  they are beautifully laid out and throughout you can feel the love, the passion, the commitment.

we ended our tour at the tasting room where the entire collection was displayed and we were told the story of each wines and how their names came about, the history behind each and the deep meaning that each wines have for the Gaja family.  everything is considered in relations to the rich history of the family, calling deep rooted feelings that, when you taste the wine, goes beyond the grape and the terroir itself.  as if, knowing the philosophical and historical background of each wine, you come to understand its personality a little better as you drink it.  i had never thought or experienced that before, but at Gaja, love, passion, and tradition transcend everything they do.

we tasted their ALTENI DI BRASSICA 2000 made from sauvignon blanc.  with intense floral aromas with smoke and hints of honey, its palate of grapefruit, honey and an refershing acidity with a nice long lenght.

the CAMARCANDA 2004, was still young and fresh with jammy red fruits - strawberries, rasberries with a medium acidity and tannin and a nice spicy, almost peppery finish.

BARBARESCO 2004: a fantastic wine.  beautiful clear bright ruby color, with medium intensity aromas of fresh forest fruits, berries, and licorice.  a very well balanced palate with its acidity, soft ripe tannins, and flavours marrying each other perfectly.  a long richly fruity lenght of complexity and savouriness which waters my mouth only thinking about it now.  definitely a great wine which, in my humble experience, i think will be a great fine wine.  to keep for many years.

and finally, SPERSS 1989.  intense aromas of tobacco, smoke, and still after 8 years strong hints of dark forest fruits.  on the palate, a fine balance of acidity and tannins with flavours of black fruits, liquorice and tar.  delicious now but can keep.

in all, a super tasting that all of us will never forget.  Sonia, we were fans before visiting you, we are definitely disciples now!  thanks!

after our lunch at arsivoli, we headed towards BAROLO where we unfortunately did not spend enough time on this trip.  although i am discovering myself to be a barbaresco guy, we have visited the cellars of GIANNI GAGLIARDO and tasted a nice PREVE BAROLO 2004.  a beautiful ruby color with soft and complex aromas of dark fruits and spices. a medium acidity with high levels of tannins - a little bit coarser than a barbaresco) and fresh yet complex flavours of cherries, mulberries, and spice. with a nice long complex finish.

Published by jc on September 17, 2007

piedmont - wines I

of course, we had wine, plenty of it. our tour brought us to some fine wineries indeed:

- poderi colla:

the first winery of our tour where we tasted a tough, very tannic nebbiolo d'alba 2004.  a fine color and aromas alright, but a palate that is almost unforgetable so much it gripped to the gums, tongue, and palate... i was told that such wine need food to be appreciated at its just value - this always makes me cringe... 

we then had a much easier to drink barbarera d'alba 2004 which gave us a fine representation indeed of its kind.  it is at this point that, while trying to concluded our tasting, our host perhaps realised that he underestimated our ability to differeniate between common and good and so we launched into a serious discussion about tannin and balance and how the nebbiolo we had just tasted had much too much of the former and seriously not enough of the later. 

and so, he hurried to the cellar and brought back a very decent bottle of barbaresco roncaglia 2004 which shows much promises as its fruit, acidity and tannin was showing a much better balance and complexity of aromas and palate. 

i am still learning and this tasting was certainly an eye opener for me to realise that i know much more than i thought and that this kind of tasting helps much in building the confidence necessary to evaluate and discuss a wine versus another.

- valter bera:

a very special experience firstly because the location of this winery is absolutely stunning and secondly because the lack of pretention shown by valter bera was so refreshing - after-all, i was told and read that he makes some of the best moscato in italy and so, i was pleasantly surprised.  we arrived in the middle of a lunch they were hosting for rai television and so did not know too much what to make of us even though we had confirmed our appointment weeks before.

nevertheless they were good enough to arrange one of their colleague to take good care of us and he started by pooring a nice bottle of dolcetto d'alba 2004.  however, we had come specifically for their moscato d'asti and their asti.  in particular, i wanted to see for myself the method of production that i just learned in my diploma classes in this last semestre.

we tasted and we experienced.  moscato d'asti had a nice pale straw color with fine persitent bubbles, medium intensity aromas of flowers, white peach, lightly sweet with low levels of acidity, fresh, fruity flavours of apple skin and hints of honey with a nice delicate soft mousse and medium (+0) after-taste.  a nice good quality wine.  the asti was much the same s the moscato but a little drier with more tropical fruits qualities and slightly more agressive mousse although, as the moscato, persistent and fine.

i was explained later that they obtain such fine mousse because they close the tank as soon as they fill it up with the moscato and use a special yeast to obtain delicatness and complexity.

we left with much moscato, asti, and also a moscato passito they make on the side which i am told is wonderful.

 

Published by jc on September 13, 2007

vigna senza nome 2005 moscato d'asit docg - tasting notes

our notes are based on WSET systematic approach to tasting:

appearance:

clear bright with a medium intensity straw yellow. with medium size bubbles of medium persistence.

nose:

clean of medium intensity, youthful, with aromas of stone fruits: apricots, white peach with hints of honey and orange blossom

palate:

medium sweet with low acidity, nice creamy mousse and low alcohol levels.  with a medium body and medium intensity of flavours as nose with a medium lenght

conclusions:

good representation of moscato d'asti:  it balances very well the sweetness with its flavours, acidity and lenght.  a pleasant cream feel on the palate with a delicate complexity on the finish.

 

please do not hesitate to let us know your comments on our notes and tell us how we can improve them!

Published by jc on August 20, 2007