mustilli vs mastroberardino











the comparison will not be completely accurate here as we are tasting a falanghina and a greco di tufo, two grapes that are something of a speciality down in italy's campania (the region around naples).

falanghina is a very ancient grape that was probably brought by the greeks in the olden days.  some say its name come from the latin "phalanga", the word to describe wooden poles the greeks used for wine training.  it almost came to extinction in campania until leonardo mustilli decided in 1979 to seriously consider how to make fine wines out of the grape.  since, several producers have caught on and planted the grapes in various terroir around the region producing some very interesting and rewarding whites.

the white grape greco was brought by the greeks to the region some 2,500 years ago and has found its home in the tufo soils of campania, especially around the small town of tufo near avellino where it earned the appellation greco di tufo docg.  it is the mastroberardino family that is generally recognized for bringing back the grape to life and make a push for it to become a fine wine.

as usual, i follow the wset systematic approach to tasting for my notes:


mustilli - vigna segreta 2005 - falanghina - sant'agata dei goti doc

a clear bright white wine with a deep intensity lemon yellow color at the core and a bright watery rim and some viscosity at the bowl.

a clean nose of medium + intensity and developing aromas of apricot, white flowers, touch of citrus & lime, dried almonds, cream and vanilla.

dry on the palate, with a crisp and refreshing acidity but gentle and pleasant and in balance with its medium + alcohol and body.  a medium intensity flavours of fresh white flowers, younger apricot and lime than its nose, complex with hints of spices, cloves, and cinnamon.  oily, silky on the palate with a long pleasant length of the after-taste.

a good balance, complex and intense.  long. savoury.  a good and rewarding example of a very well made falanghina.


mastroberardino - novaserra greco di tufo docg 2006

a clear bright white wine with medium intensity lemon flesh with hints of green hues and a clear water rim.  some viscosity at the bowl

a clean nose of medium intensity and fresh and zesty aromas of peach, orange blossom, apple, lemon, almonds.

dry on the palate with a firm, zesty acidity and medium alcohol and body.  a medium intensity of flavours recalling its nose, but more zesty, crisp, and minerally.  light, almost airy, easy on the palate and fresh.  a medium length with a spicy, if not bitter, and pleasant after-taste.

a good balance.  simple, fresh, rewarding, and easy to drink.  a good wine but slightly simpler and less rewarding than the mustilli falanghina.