Last night, at a dinner hosted by the "Confrérie Des Chevaliers Du Tastevin", I had another fantastic experience with a "natural" wine. This time, from Morey St-Denis in Burgundy. From a wine made predominantly of Aligoté grapes grown on 95 years old vines and with absolutely minimal intervention in the cellar. No SO2 and no filtration.
The result in our glass was wonderful. But again, just as my experience with last week's Fleurie, it was a kind of strange. In the sense that it was totally out of stereotype, difficult to pigeonhole. It was a wine to learn to understand. A wine that revealed itself only in layers, slowly, gently, only rewarding those willing to carefully listen to it.
Already 6 years old, it certainly showed its age with a sustained golden color. The nose was savoury & complex in an understated & delicate way. Notes of dried agrumes, blond tobacco, stewed camomile tea, and a touch of leather. Again, this energy, subtle but clearly there. On the palate, a kind of succulent roundness. Smooth & soft. Lovely wine.
But it is on the finish that the wine truly revealed itself. Very delicately. But with a certain energy & subtle intensity that is unlike many wines I have had before. Long, long length finishing again in a gentle peacock tail.