It might seem obvious to many that, when it comes to wine, style and quality are two distinctively separate concepts. Yet, many wine critics and bloggers still confound these issues as if they are one and the same. Until now, this column has begged to differ.Read More
Tasting fortified wines on Saturday, the point that wine structure really is key for recognition in a blind situation was once again reinforced in a major way. I
f you put side by side, and Amontillado, an Oloroso, a Sercial, and even a Verdelho, you will see that the colour is pretty much the same. All are clearly "rancio" on the 1st sniff. And, with alcohol ranging from 18.5 to 19. to 20%, it is evident that you are in the presence of a fortified wine. And so, what sets them apart.
Structure is the key. The Amontillado and the Oloroso both have a much lower level of acidity compared to the Sercial and Verdelho. In fact, acidity is what clearly sets the Madeiras from the Sherries... Let's see now, with a flight of each type, how the different wines compare and contrast each other...Read More